|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Michael Bartosek on Apr 4, 2009|
|Comments on Route 2 - The Roof Route||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Sherman Oaks, CA
May 3, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
This was a awesome, mental, slabby 5.10a. I think it's abit harder, but I'm not used to slabby stuff so I'm really nobody who can judge. It begins with sweet move over a big block. Then is stairs for 20ft. You traverse left once you run out of hand holds and start a mock crack climb that slowly disappears as you make your way up to the last to bolts. The crack ends and your left with nothing to hold on to, or stand on 8ft from the anchors, 5 ft above your last clip. Ha...
It's one smooth, wishful move that if you miss, you'll surely lose some skin! Overall, this is a "classic" route with a lot of different climbing techniques built in.
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By Sean Denny
Nov 15, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
|One of my favorites. The path of least resistance weaves back and forth between the bolts. If you go straight from bolt to bolt then I'd believe the 10a/b grade. Regardless, a wonderful lesson in slab technique without the danger of substantial bodily harm.|
Apr 7, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Definitely the best route on the wall. A must-do. Super fun, technical and thoughtful. Some may find the rating a little stiff, but the bolts are where you need them. The path of least resistance is not a straight line.
The (shared) anchor is set back and requires a cordalette for extension if you want to TR this climb. Pulling the rope after cleaning is a bit of a pain in the rear since the rap-rings are flat on the rock + the gully and bushes are rope-grabbers. I actually recommend just belaying the second up and walking back to the base to save time.
If you are TR-ing this leave some directionals since it is possible to take a pendulum fall on the bottom section.
From: Los Angeles, CA
Oct 14, 2013
|+1 for directionals for TR, a fall on the lower half will pendulum into a wall across a small gully and will ruin your day...|
Apr 19, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
|Best climb on the wall! There is a bolt protecting every real move you make.|
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 20, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|5.9/5.9+.....???????. Even on a cold "high friction" day that's hard to imagine. Ditto on Maidy's comments regarding walking off, as pulling the rope through the rings is really a pain.|