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 ADVANCED
The Playground
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Advanced Start T,TR 
Barlow's Buttress T,TR 
Battle of the Bulge T,TR 
Beginner's Hand Jam T,TR 
Black Wall T,TR 
Blow Hole T,TR 
Burnt Crack T,TR 
Cactus Climb T,TR 
Cheeks, The T,TR 
Face Variation TR 
Fingertip Layback T,TR 
First Strike T,S,TR 
Flakey Face TR 
Flakey Nine T,TR 
Flying A T,TR 
Flying A Buttress T,TR 
Luke and Carlo's route TR 
Moment of Inertia T,TR 
Mononucleosis T,TR 
Moon Dog T,TR 
Mr. Foster's Lead T,TR 
Open Project TR 
Original Horak Route T,TR 
Playground Traverse 
Playgrounder, The T,TR 
Repo Man T,TR 
Route 1 T,TR 
Route 16 T,TR 
Route 17 T,TR 
Route 18 T,TR 
Route 20 T,TR 
Route 25 T,TR 
Route 37 T,TR 
Route 6 T,TR 
T2 Flake T,TR 
Texas T,TR 
Tree Climb T,TR 
Unrelenting Nines T,TR 
Upper Left Roof T,TR 
Vulture Roof TR 
Zander Zigzag T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Route 18 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown, 1970s
Page Views: 222
Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 12, 2008

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Description 

The low big black roof is the most obvious feature at the Playground. The easiest passage through this feature is this unnamed climb, which passes through an A shaped slot in the roof (the 2nd from the left end of the roof); however, this climb sees little traffic. If the grunge was cleaned up by more traffic, this would be a pretty good climb.

A few tricky moves down low reach a rest below the roof. Chimney and stem your way through the black roof, which is a fun and intriguing crux. Above, you can angle to the left and head up steep juggy cracks, or angle to the right and head up easy juggy cracks or maybe go straight up harder face. Expect dirtiness and loose rubble on all variations up higher.

Location 

The low big black roof about 20' up is the most obvious feature at the Playground and is right in the middle of it. The easiest passage through this feature is the 2nd crack going through this, near the left end of the roof, through an A shaped slot.

This is #18 in Jemez Rock and the Beta Photo.

Protection 

1 each cams and nuts. Save some gear to build an anchor at the top.


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