Route 1 E3 5c
||Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross Peter Lockey (Var Leads) May 1958 ..FFA .A.Parkin P.Clarke 1975.|
|Page Views: ||278|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Dec 24, 2009|
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Bill Birkett on the final pitch of Route 1.1974
Last year alone, Access Fund preserved access to 179 areas and opened 7 closed climbing areas. Join or give and MP will match!
A stunning route up the impressive corner to the right of the headwall. On the first ascent Peter led the final pitch and fell most of the way down the wall from what is still the free crux, entering the upper groove. After much bad language he completed the pitch. Starts above an ash tree on a grassy hump below the centre of the crag.
P1) Climb the broken groove until a short groove is climbed up to the right to a ledge and belay below a groove on the left, 5.6, 70'
P2) Climb the wall for about 20' to a pro piton then up an Overhanging crack right of a mass of ivy. Straight up the left to piton belays below the final corner. Climb the corner direct,and finish up the difficult groove.
Falcon Crag Borrowdale, see FRCC guide to Borrowdale.
Normal rack Cams and stoppers.
Peter Lockey Below Upper Falcon Crag. Peter led th...
BETA PHOTO: A)Route 1 E3 5c B)Walk on the Wild Side E1 5aR (u...