|Below The Old New Place
Start in the next obvious dihedral left of Putterman Cracks, and work your way up slabs with gear in a thin hands crack to a big roof. Turn this on the right (crux). Continue to the top, going generally straight up, passing a bolt on the way through a steeper section with big jugs.
Another decent crack at BONP, but it doesn't see much traffic. Longer than the other easier climbs here (Putterman Cracks, L-Dopa) and a step less difficult.
This climb is 10' left of Putterman Cracks and is listed as route #1 in Jemez Rock.
It is probably the left-most crack/corner one would consider climbing at BONP.
1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 3". Maybe a #4 cam.
There's now a 2-bolt anchor at the top equipped for lowering.
|By Brian Quiter|
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 24, 2008
There are two more ways to start this climb if you're top-roping or into unprotected leading/soloing:
The face just left of the dihedral is fun and of similar difficulty.
Also, moving right after the first couple moves and pulling a big roof is probably 11+ or 12- and is a one-move-wonder/better-bouldered-than-climbed option.