Route 1 - R.I.P Arete
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The route follows an arete at the edge of the formation - comibnation of face and arete climbing. The crux is moving through the last two bolts to the anchor. An easier option is to stay left on the arete or move slight right for a harder finish up the face.
1st route on the wall (left to right - looking at the wall). This route can be toproped as it is easy to hike to the top of the wall.
5 bolts to a three bolt anchor with rap rings. The first bolt is approximately 15 feet off the ground with a bouldery start.
|Comments on Route 1 - R.I.P Arete
From: Sherman Oaks, CA
May 3, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b R
Great route. Super run out, but the first 3 bolts are pretty easy. The last move makes you work a little and tests your nerves if your leading it. TR 5.4, Sport 5.7 in my opinion.
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|By Tristan B|
From: La Crescenta, CA
Feb 6, 2012
This route isn't that run out. Just bring a double shoulder length sling for a horn inbetween the second and third bolts and it's pretty safe. Also the anchors are to the right so if someone is TRing it, bring a double shoulder for a horn at the top to protect the last moves for them.
Apr 15, 2012
Agree - Bring some long slings for mid route protection. If you want to top-rope this climb, you will need a cordalette to extend the anchor, and a long runner to sling the horn for a directional. Directional draws on the bolts for your TR are recommended since it is possible to take a pendulum swing off the edge of this climb.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Aug 10, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13
Thanks for the good advice Tristan, I took a double and totally used it.