Round River 5.4
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| Type: | Sport, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | Cool Summer Days |
| Submitted By: | Mattyg on May 29, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Following the 5.7 variation at the Second pitch of...
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Description Three pitches of moderate sport climbing in a beautiful setting above the River. First pitch goes from large tree at the base up to anchors. Second pitch can go left of slab above anchors, or slab can go direct (5.7?). Third pitch goes left and around catwalk then up to the top.
Location Route is halfway (almost) up Burma Rd., east of Smith and above the canal.
Protection All bolts, with fixed anchors at belays. Finish w/ scramble to backside of rock for spicey single free-rap to uphill side of formation. 5.7 Variation on second pitch is sparsely bolted.
BETA PHOTO: Original Round River route on Koala Rock.
| JohnK belaying Kara to the first pitch anchors of ...
| Liz at the first bolt (~20+ ft)
| View from the first belay ledge. Nice little spot ...
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By mark d May 31, 2006
| this is not a sport route. only the first pitch is bolted. |
By Danny Darby From: Seattle, WA Feb 16, 2007 rating: 5.9
| 1st pitch is all bolts. 2nd pitch starts with a couple of bolts and continues up the run out slab. Can use small stoppers here. You can link these two pitches if needed. I recommend the Round River Direct 3rd pitch. 5.9 with plenty of bolts. From the top of the 2nd pitch you basically follow a line of shiny new bolts straight to the top of Koala Rock. Great pitch. |
By corvegas From: the depths of oregon Mar 12, 2007
| Link P1 and P2 with 60m to the nice belay ledge. Carry mabey 1 or 2 thin peices for the runout on P2, and mabey 1 or 2 larger peices for the last pitch. |
By John Butters From: Portland, Oregon May 12, 2008
| 1st pitch has good bolts. 2nd pitch is protected for the first 20 feet, then nothing. I just carried a set up stoppers and was able to protect the 2nd pitch reasonably. 3rd pitch has no bolts if you stay true to "Round River" and don't end up moving over to "Round River Direct" (a 5.9 alternate ending that is well bolted.) I was able to protect the first 30 feet with stoppers but the last 40 feet was unprotectable to the top. A bit sketch but a great climb! Oh, and it is in the shade in the morning so bring layers!!! |
By DWech From: Fort Collins Jun 1, 2010 rating: 5.5
| This route is greatly improved with the addition of the direct finish. P1 and P2 (do this in 3 so as to hear your belayer) are no harder than 5.5 or so, but it's good to take some medium-to-large nuts for one placement on the long crack of P2. P3 (the direct finish) is runout a bit, but it's easy after the last bolt. |
By live_it From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca Jun 16, 2010
| Had a blast on this route. Very easy climbing with plenty of bolts on the first pitch. 2nd pitch has potential nut and small cam placements, there was a nut stuck and I clipped it, didn't feel the need for any more pro. We did the Direct finish which I think is 5.8. Bolted very well (can't see all the bolts from the belay.) Rappelled off the backside which is a free rap, a great way to end the whole climb. |
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