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This is a challenging and worthy route!
Crux comes just below the top, where you have two option: tweak your fingers into flared blue tcu sized jams or slap out to the arete just left of the crack for an exciting and athletic finish. Of course, those with large digits only have the later option. You don't really need tape, as Binghams guide suggests- its not that rough. This thing feels a hell of a lot longer than 40 feet after you've climbed it!
The crack that essentially shares the start with redtail, but then leans to the right.
cams- at least a full run- blue tcu's to a big hand piece. Also bring a lot of extra draws to finish on Redtail (or Seasonal employment, though less desireable because its anchor is so far out left). Roughleg has no anchor, but could use one. A 70 meter rope is required to lower off of Redtail
By zach cook
From: Boise, ID
Mar 22, 2015
Gave this rig a go and boy does it pack a punch...esp for only being 40ish ft. Gear was doubles of .5,.75 and singles from 1-4 camalot. felt that actually exiting the ow into the hand crack was quite committing and for sure exiting the last 8 ft or so is butt puckering good time. I felt that tape helped, but hell Im no crack climber and a bit of a weenie when shoving my mits in hard granite.
GREAT ROUTE!!!!! and MUCH overlooked when at Rabbit Rock. Anchors would be supreme....Brad? Or we could all just get 2 pitches of great climbing done.