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The starting moves
|Some areas require a guide.|
**Effective December 2014 this climb is closed**
This stellar problem doesn't have any super difficult moves, but every move is solid with a consistent difficulty until the top.
Begin on a good left facing sidepull and climb left through a decent pinch to a small undercling. From here make a big move to a good crimp, match and make a committing move to a jug. This gives a chance for a shake as while from here things ease up, it will keep you on your toes until the top.
Probably on the easier side of V7, but the excitement of a possible fall makes up for it.
Located in the Lunch Rocks area, with careful spotting, Roughage should be visible from the trail. It is located on the level above The Wonder Dyno and Chong Li.
The more pads and spotters the better. The landing area is pretty uneven at the start and the finish is pretty high above an annoyingly placed boulder and tree.
As Sherman eloquently writes "Tempting bad landings below the first moves and a melon-splitting block behind the lip. Terrifying, technical."
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 20, 2010
Not to mention the hole next to the boulder that leads to a drop off. The boulder itself has a sharp ridge that runs towards the problem. Thankfully when you are over all this you are on the V3 finishing moves, but you will be death gripping.
By Jason Carlson
Dec 19, 2014
As of December 2014 this climb has been closed by the park staff.
Jan 4, 2015
@Jason. Woah really? That's a bummer. Anyone care to elaborate? Was there a pictograph or something on it?
By Owen Summerscales
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 3, 2015
I believe (and correct me if I am wrong) but there is a small pictograph on the underside of the boulder. Recently someone had added a sit start to the problem, I don't know if this directly contributed to the closure or not, but from the sit start there was risk of harming the art I guess.