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Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
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Rough Boys 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Doug Madara & Choe Brooks April, 1981
Page Views: 1,089
Submitted By: matthew ritter on Apr 21, 2009
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Description 

This one will wake you up if 5.10a is your limit! I must quote the Ed Webster guidebook here for, it is my bible, and I enjoy the wording for its understated nature.
P1 "Climb on to a moderate slab, protect under a thin arch, then face climb (5.9+) up to a small, horizontal ledge six feet right of the actual dihedral. Clip a piton (with relief), step left, and stem up (5.10a) to good holds and a stance. Escape left around a small roof to a belay/rappel anchor."

The transition from the slab to the small ledge is protected below your feet on a slab as you pull onto a vertical face (kinda hairy).
Clipping the flexy piton feels good as you move into the fun dihedral.

the book describes two options for a second pitch, both of which are overgrown and need to be cleaned. I've never ventured higher, though to me it looks like worthwhile crack climbing.

This is an exceptionally fun pitch that is marred only by the condition of the 2nd pitch. I hope some cleaning will yield more fun to complete the Rough Boys experience.


Location 

Around the corner from the Right Roof, and immediately right of Fat Girls with Acne


Protection 

small cams and nuts. I found a .75 Camalot useful up top



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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 21, 2009

Would this be a candidate for a PG13 or an R rating?

By Chad Laflamme
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 21, 2009

I would say possibly a Pg-13.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Apr 22, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

pg-pg-13
it protects fine, you just don't want to blow the moves on the first wire. Great route, even though dirty the second pitch isn't bad.

By burlap submariner
Sep 22, 2009

this route protects really well, the flake before the corner system takes lots of micro nuts, if you want it you can protect it well.

By matthew ritter
Nov 21, 2009

the gear is good, the falls would suck

By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Sep 19, 2011

Jerry Handren recently cleaned the crack to the far right and it is good to go. Real nice route...if you like your heart in your throat! :)

By charlesg3
From: Cambridge, MA
Jul 23, 2012

Great climbing through the corner. The pin is in a pretty poor location though.

Also, there is a second pitch that traverses right about 40 feet to a crack that goes to the top. Also great climbing, although it is a bit dirty.

By twellman
Jul 26, 2012

Very fun climb with great variety on both pitches. As of this posting, there is an anchor atop pitch 1 comprised of a few fixed nuts and rappel rings, in good condition. The second pitch is definitely worth doing though, so bring some small cams and nuts and go for it! A 60m will get you back to the ground (without any extra, so tie some knots) from the tree anchor on the ledge atop pitch 2.