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Mic Fairchild
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Mar 17, 2011
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Boulder
· Joined Jan 2003
· Points: 360
Seeking comments and opinions on "The Wall of Neglect". I'm sure there are others who actually enjoy this rubble heap, or hate it enough to sound off.
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Brett Brotherton
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Mar 17, 2011
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Arvada, CO
· Joined Jun 2008
· Points: 121
Never climbed on it and don't have any desire to the name and appearance are enough to keep me away!
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Brad White
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Mar 17, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2006
· Points: 25
Yo Mic, before I saw that you were the original poster, I was going to suggest "ask Mic Fairchild". While I consider myself a person that knows Eldo pretty well, I'm guessing that you and Steve L. know this wall better than anyone. I've never climbed on the Rotwand. I feel a little ashamed (in a good way :-). Hope you're well. Brad
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Dustin B
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Mar 17, 2011
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Steamboat
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 1,275
I've always wanted to climb it, I love rubble heaps but the conversation usually goes: "well, we're here, what do you want to climb today?" "I've always kinda wanted to climb the rotwand" "the rotwand? really? (makes a face like he/she's just smelt a vegan fart), you really want to climb that? Lets go do some real climbing..."
I don't want to climb it without a partner who isn't gung-ho, so If there's any choss nerds out there who would like a partner, hit me up while im still semi-unemployed.
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Joe Huggins
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Mar 17, 2011
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Grand Junction
· Joined Oct 2001
· Points: 105
Miclaus! As much as I'm like a recurrent infection in the Corpus Eldo,I've never touched it.My attitude has always echoed my partners-why?Maybe it goes back to the nightmare I had as a kid;about a wall of vertical gravel falling on top of me,leaving me alive but "unmanned"...oops,TMI Cheers to You,Oh Sage!
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YDPL8S
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Mar 17, 2011
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Santa Monica, Ca.
· Joined Aug 2003
· Points: 540
I climbed it once in the early 70's with my climbing mentor, pretty soon after I had started climbing. He told me that it would be good practice for alpine climbing when everything is loose and it's hard to find good protection. Well, it was all of that and more, but I'm not so sure that practicing those skills helped me. I guess I would have to have done it multiple times like Mic has. As we were climbing, I distinctly remember him saying "don't you feel like Layton Kor?". I guess I'd have to say.....no.
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Allen Hill
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Mar 17, 2011
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FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
· Joined Jun 2004
· Points: 1,410
Someone was on it yesterday.
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Northwest Corner
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Mar 17, 2011
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Bend
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 1,505
It's been awhile but I've done the Rotwand Route and Kinnder Rooten. The Rotwand was not that bad from what I remember. Not that great either, but worth doing once. I don't really remember the first pitch of Kinnder Rooten but the second is quite memorable. The rock on the second pitch is fairly solid (for the Rotwand anyway)but the pro, route finding and climbing are devious at best - and hard for 5.9! At least the way we went. I've never witnessed another party climbing on the Rotwand. I know it gets done but you don't see it too often. There are plenty of routes to choose from though, and what is even more amazing is how many routes have been done on the South Rotwand Wall, or whatever that piece of crap to the south of the parking lot is called. I'm sure almost all of those are awaiting second ascents.
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Hank Caylor
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Mar 17, 2011
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Livin' in the Junk!
· Joined Dec 2003
· Points: 643
Uhmm, yeah. That slagheap is a death sandwich without the bread.
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David A
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Mar 17, 2011
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Gardnerville, NV
· Joined Oct 2008
· Points: 405
Did the Rotwand Route about a month ago. I really wanted to do it for some time, and like others, found it difficult to get a partner for it. Long story short, got a partner who was psyched on it as much as I was and did it on a kinda windy day. It was really fun. I did it because I felt that I needed to do it at some point, it beckons. The Rotwand route was pretty easy. I'm too scared to do Kinnder Rooten. I can say that I've climbed on the Rotwand once, and that's good enough. I've also never ever seen anybody climbing on it, ever.
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Mic Fairchild
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Mar 20, 2011
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Boulder
· Joined Jan 2003
· Points: 360
Four hundred people view the topic and three admit to having been on the crag. That's about the percentage that I expected, but I still think it deserves a little more action. Of course, after 250 laps my perspective is skewed. Scott: quit lying, you DID feel like Layton!
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jack roberts
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Mar 21, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2002
· Points: 0
Mic I climbed it once and found it mentally exhausting. Didn't know where I was or if I was gonna be able to live to tell the tale. I think the Rotwand should be turned into a wall for dry tooling.........
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YDPL8S
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Mar 21, 2011
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Santa Monica, Ca.
· Joined Aug 2003
· Points: 540
Mic, I don't think Layton ever looked like the "shaking leaf" that I was that day. Maybe I did look a little like Layton in the way that I moved so fast to get up and off of that thing! :-)
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Bob Dergay
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Mar 22, 2011
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Colorado
· Joined Oct 2006
· Points: 101
Hey Mic- thanks for the inspiration. I went and climbed it last evening... Wow. I've always enjoyed the scandalous nature of climbing less than perfect rock... But that was a whole different realm.... I'm still trying to wrap my brain around the experience.
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