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Rotten Reality 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FFA Edmund Ward
Page Views: 388
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Apr 29, 2006
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Evaluating the degree of "Rotten-ness" on Rotten R...

Description 

This steep diagonal crack provides lots of interesting climbing; Off-width technique, finger-to-fist size jams, big face holds and awkward rest stances make it an interesting and committing lead. Midway up is a bolt, which is where most people end the climb. The upper section is "grunty".


Location 

At the far eastern end of La Cueva is a grotto area. Rotten Reality is the obvious right tending crack.


Protection 

2 3/8" bolts protect up to the crack. The crack has good gear placements if you hunt for them, but there is also a lot of flaring and crumbly rock which should be avoided. The mid-point bolt is a 3/8" and there are two hangerless 1/4" bolts here as well. From the top, one can walk north and do a ~100' rappel from the route to the right called "Banana Splits".



Photos of Rotten Reality Slideshow Add Photo
past the little start crux. first bolt at the feet. second a little higher than my head.
BETA PHOTO: past the little start crux. first bolt at the feet...
Rotten reality: Three bolts and gear to the 2 bolt anchor of Banana Splits.
BETA PHOTO: Rotten reality: Three bolts and gear to the 2 bolt...
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By Jorge Achata
From: Lima, Peru
Jul 21, 2013

CONDITION REPORT 

There are birds nesting on the crack. A large nest some 20 ft above ground and two other more higher up. It would be better to leave them be and wait till winter to go up on this crack.