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Evaluating the degree of "Rotten-ness" on Rotten R...
This steep diagonal crack provides lots of interesting climbing; Off-width technique, finger-to-fist size jams, big face holds and awkward rest stances make it an interesting and committing lead. Midway up is a bolt, which is where most people end the climb. The upper section is "grunty".
At the far eastern end of La Cueva is a grotto area. Rotten Reality is the obvious right tending crack.
2 3/8" bolts protect up to the crack. The crack has good gear placements if you hunt for them, but there is also a lot of flaring and crumbly rock which should be avoided. The mid-point bolt is a 3/8" and there are two hangerless 1/4" bolts here as well. From the top, one can walk north and do a ~100' rappel from the route to the right called "Banana Splits".
BETA PHOTO: past the little start crux. first bolt at the feet...
BETA PHOTO: Rotten reality: Three bolts and gear to the 2 bolt...
By Jorge Achata
From: Lima, Peru
Jul 21, 2013
There are birds nesting on the crack. A large nest some 20 ft above ground and two other more higher up. It would be better to leave them be and wait till winter to go up on this crack.