Despite the name, this climb is a lot of fun and on solid rock. Climb up a jumble of boulders to reach several crack systems in a dihedral. Climb this for 30 feet and the cracks fade down to a single narrowing crack and the angle of rock lessens. The next 10 feet the crack is clogged with dirt and leaves, but the climbing is fairly easy. The climb is easy to protect, but setting an anchor can be tricky.
Far right side of Mirage Wall, just to the right of Wimpy Crack. There are no anchors at the top, so the descent requires a climb down the back, but its fairly easy. Walk off to the right.
Small to medium gear.
BETA PHOTO: Rotten Corner.
|By Alpinisto Outdoors|
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 22, 2012
I just went to Mirage wall for the first time yesterday. I have always seen it from the Buzzard's Roost area and always wanted to check it out. While I got my butt kicked on just about every climb I still enjoyed a few of the cracks.
My question is about "Rotten Corner." I agree that it's a pretty fun climb with cool stemming and interesting movement. Has anyone linked the left arching crack to the left of the climb to Rotten Corner? I did this yesterday, traversed the left arching crack then continued up the corner. Added some length (and difficulty in my opinion) but also added a lot of rope drag.
Second question. Where the hell do you build an anchor? I ended up climbing down the backside then walking to the climber's left and using the tree as an anchor (bad practice out there I know but I saw nowhere else to build a solid anchor so I could lower and my second could clean the gear. He then walked off). Thanks!!