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Roter Punkt 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 7 pitches, 600', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 343
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Oct 21, 2008

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Pitch one: Daniele H finishing the thin moves.


Another stellar route in the area, with small, positive holds on vertical terrain. The route presumably derives its name from a single, red plastic hold bolted on the rock in the magnificent third pitch, to keep the route at a homogeneous level of difficulty.

Pitch one: 6b, a thin crux on vertical rock, followed by a jungle-gym romp on slightly overhanging terrain, first up, than sharply to the right, to reach the belay.
Pitch two: 5c+, a brilliant pitch of face climbing on compact, vertical rock.
Pitch three: 6b+, the highlight of the route, a very long pitch ascending slightly overhanging rock on super-positive crimps, followed by an interesting, balancy ramp to gain the anchor. Take at least 16 quickdraws, or backclean a couple en route.
Pitch four: 5a, a mild scramble to reposition for the next pitch.
Pitch five: 6c, a very short, thin traverse defines the pitch and gives it the grade.
Pitch six: 6a, a fantastic technical pitch heading more or less straight up.
Pitch seven: 6b, superb climbing, with multiple distinctly challenging moves spaced between moderate terrain. The route then follows a technical corner up into a roof, concluding with a wild, pumpy hand traverse to skirt around underneath the roof to the anchor.


Proceed on the approach trail past the pillar with the meteorit route. Shortly thereafter, slightly uphill, a large red dot painted on the rock marks the route.

Descent is by straightforward abseil.


The route is very well bolted. No complementary protection is required. Make sure to carry a very full rack of draws, or be ready to backclean / skip the odd bolt.

Photos of Roter Punkt Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch three: the steep face with small, positive h...
Pitch three: the steep face with small, positive h...
A demanding finale to the route Roter Punkt
A demanding finale to the route Roter Punkt

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