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Roter Fels

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Roter Fels 1 
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Roter Fels  

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Location: 49.6023, 11.496 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,162
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jun 17, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: The general split between Roter Fels 2 and Roter F...


This area offers up some very tall walls for the Frankenjura. Some of the routes here are 35+ meters, which makes toproping here a little complicated sometimes. Not only does this area have some of the longest routes, but it also has some of the best in their grades. And since the wall faces Southeast it catches the morning sun and warms up early, and cools off later in the day. Route difficulties range from UIAA 5 to 9 (5.6 to 5.12d). This crag has a lot of history, so these routes are graded a bit hard. I'll do my best to give my opinion of the updated rating (despite personal qualms with doing so).
The crag is divided into 5 sections. Unfortunately, the first section is closed from January 15 through July 31 for raptor nesting. That still leaves 38 routes available for climbing year-round.
Due to the overhanging nature of this area, the entire area is generally good for climbing while it's raining. Most climbs are protected by the overhang or a roof at the top. Since they're not massively overhanging, your belayer could get a bit wet while you climb and stay dry.

Getting There 

If you'd like to take the train, you can get to Rupprechtstegen from Nuremberg. At the Rupprechtstegen stop, walk across the river and into town. Continue along the river in the northeast direction, crossing under the train tracks. You'll see a little foot bridge on your right which leads to the main hiker's/biker's trail and a good opportunity to take a picture of the crag from across the river. Also, you can access Emporwand and Zsigmondi Ged.-Wand from here. Anyway, to get to this crag, don't actually use the foot bridge, but continue walking past it and you'll see a parking lot on your left along with the crag which is right next to the road.

If you'd like to drive here, take the A9 from Nuremberg north towards Dresden/Bayreuth. Get off on exit 47 and head towards Hormersdorf. Before leaving Hormersdorf, take the left towards Menschhof and continue driving through it and Wallsdorf. Right as you leave Wallsdorf take the left road towards Raitenberg and Rupprechtstegen. When you get to Rupprechtstegen continue north towards Velden. After passing under the train bridge you'll see the parking on your left and the crag right on the side of the road.

Climbing Season

Weather station 25.5 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',2]

Featured Route For Roter Fels
The general run of the route viewed from the road.

Optimist 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Europe : Germany : ... : Roter Fels 1
Classic route! The climbing doesn't get much better than this. Climb up through the first two bolts (crux) to get to the ledge and shake out. Continue up and left through the undercling roof, then head right and up and keep going straight up to the top. There are a few tricky and reachy parts in between, but just keep cool and use the rests you can find along the way and don't give up....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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