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Midnight Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Widow T 
Curtains T 
Dagoba System TR 
Easter Overhang T 
Nightingale T 
ROTC T 
Sometimes a Great Notion T 
Stevens Pass Motel T 
Sting, The T 
Yellow Bird T 

ROTC 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Paul Boving 1977
Page Views: 4,365
Submitted By: Jesse James on Mar 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Redpointing an outstanding pitch. Photo by Tom Mic...

Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This excellent, dead vertical, splitter crack ranges from fingers to thin hands to perfect hands. The climb starts from an enormous ledge halfway up the center part of midnight rock.

Soft at the grade.

Location 

You can climb Steven's Pass Motel, Sting, or Wasp to reach the giant ledge.

Protection 

Excellent gear the whole way. Gear to 2 inches.


Photos of ROTC Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down ROTC while lowering off. What an awes...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down ROTC while lowering off. What an awes...
Rock Climbing Photo: ROTC is the splitter crack on the right.
BETA PHOTO: ROTC is the splitter crack on the right.
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of the crack system of ROTC while low...
BETA PHOTO: Another view of the crack system of ROTC while low...
Rock Climbing Photo: The splitter hand crack at the end of ROTC. The cl...
BETA PHOTO: The splitter hand crack at the end of ROTC. The cl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Michael on the last traversing hands on ROTC.
Tom Michael on the last traversing hands on ROTC.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Michael at start of ROTC.
Tom Michael at start of ROTC.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Michael starting ROTC.
Tom Michael starting ROTC.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just past the thin crux section below the alcove o...
Just past the thin crux section below the alcove o...

Comments on ROTC Add Comment
Show which comments
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 18, 2007

This is the best crack climb in the state of Washington.
By hummerchine
Aug 21, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

After over 30 years of extensive rock climbing, this could be the best pitch that I have done ANYWHERE! I was just up there today solo-toproping, did three laps. I'm guessing that I have done this pitch at least 150 times over the years...and it still rules!
By hummerchine
Aug 15, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Led it yesterday...high humidity, DANG that felt hard with soaking wet hands!

Still rules!
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 19, 2014

So sad about Paul Boving. I think of him every time on Thin Fingers.
By kerwinl
Oct 15, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Anybody know if you can walk around and approach this pitch by rappelling in? The approach via dead end ledge was beater.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Oct 15, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Hi Kerwin,

Tom (Hummerchine) has rapped in from the top. His comments are just above. Ask him -- I'm sure he would give you detailed beta.
By hummerchine
Jul 9, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Here is Tom Michael (hummerchine) Kerwin. I've met you a few times at Bellevue Stonegardens with Terry Lien. Did 4 more laps on ROTC today in unusually PERFECT weather for this time of the year...first on lead, then three more on TR. Good to see it didn't get any easier in my absence! (I don't think I went up there last year for the first time ever). The description says "soft for the grade"...and I used to think so too after getting it dialed. I don't think so any more. I've seen too many strong climbers get SHUT DOWN trying to lead that thing...and then TR it like no big deal. Of course it's easier to TR than to lead a route...but some routes the difference is bigger than others. ROTC just might own the record for the biggest difference of all. I have that thing ruthlessly wired and BARELY got it on lead today. On TR, each lap felt easier.

As to how to get to the top...it's kinda epic. If you think the approach to Midnight Rock is heinous (it is)...going from the base to the top is even worse. Decades ago there was sort of a trail (on the left side of the cliff), but things have changed. After a fire many years ago there was a landslide above the cliff and the part of the "trail" that traversed here is now super loose and dicey...you screw up, you fall off the cliff and die. Even the traverse left from the base and the ascent up gully filled with dead trees is nasty. After a number of times up there I've found a way to climb up even higher past the landslide and traverse from there. Above ROTC is a large tree with a bunch of slings and pieces of rope tied around it. I used to replace that stuff every year but haven't been up there in a while. From the tree you can rap with a single rope to the chains above ROTC.

This climb gets my coveted "6-star" rating!

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