Rosy Toit 5.10c R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 190 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Steve Wunsch and Hunter Smith 1973 |
| Fixed Hardware: | 2 Lead Pins, 2 Belay Bolts [details] |
| Submitted By: | Bryson Slothower on May 16, 2003 |
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near the crux.
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description This spectacular and spooky route starts at the top of the second pitch of Le Toit and ends at the top of Rosy Crucifixion in one 190 foot pitch. From the bolted anchor on Le Toit move up and left into a right facing corner via 5.9+ moves. Follow the corner until you reach two pitons and head hard left, it is runout after the pitons. Join up with Rosy C. at the bolted anchor on the second pitch and follow its third pitch to the Upper Ramp. While the crux is pretty well protected for the leader it is pretty serious before and after. The second should be very solid at the grade because a fall from the crux moves will result in a huge swing.
Protection Couple of pitons, small to medium cams, stoppers...
By Ross Keller
From: Parker, CO
Jun 16, 2003
rating: 5.10c R
| There's good gear before the crux and a big horn that wraps nicely with a double-length sling after the crux. The 2 pins at the crux are junk, but the LA before them and the gear you can place below that pin are good. After the crux section, it's a moderate and run-out rising left traverse with one 9-ish move near the end. Certainly no worse for leader or 2nd than the Le Toit pitches that lead up to it.3 stars for position & moves. 2 stars for rock quality. 1 star for gear. Well worth doing! |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 31, 2004
rating: 5.10b
| I'm going to agree that the rating is not as hard as most established Eldo 10c's. I'll also say that I don't think the gear is that bad, you get plenty of OK gear along the way and there is certainly enough available to make and ascent safe, provided you place it.In hindsight, it is too bad I didn't tie this into the second pitch of Le Toit for a single long pitch. The pitches would combine nicely, and despite the winging route that would have created, I believe that the judicious use of 2' slings would keep the rope drag down. TOo bad I didn't read this suggestion first. |
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