|Crescent Crack Buttress
After completing The Ross Connection, you are below a slab with two routes. The left route is The Ross Route. It starts with a bit of unprotected but easy mantling followed by a ledge traverse left. Clip the one bolt (which is a bit low for my taste, and get to and complete one heinous mantle. If you fall on the mantle, the ledge could cause injury. After the mantle, it traverses left into a wide but easy crack. It ends at the anchors for Razor Edge, just below the finish of Crescent Crack.
Wide gear would be nice for the crack but it wasn't absolutely neccesary.
Jun 17, 2007
I led this without placing a bolt on the first ascent.
|By James Garrett|
Jul 11, 2008
I agree with Jeff about the bolt. I remember climbing this in the summer of 1981 with my friend Tom...we had pretty much both just arrived in SLC at the same time. We had yet to meet the local activists in the canyon.
He had brought along his hand drill kit I think to install possible belay rappel anchors, I can't recall exactly why anymore. At any rate, he led that pitch and though he had just climbed two hard El Cap routes that previous Spring, he was pretty wigged at that mantle for quite some time. I belayed patiently, unwilling to relieve him of his agony and lead it myself. Finally, he decided to hand drill a low bolt (which would have prevented a long fall, while still maintaining the certain high risk of falling onto the ledge (and still probably getting hurt!). the rationale, I presume, was to still leave a very bold lead.
I always thought it was a wierd bolt placement, too....but that is the story.
Jeff is and was in another league....if you want it removed...I will do the dirty work. Let me know if you want the route returned to original shape.
|By Ben Folsom|
Sep 14, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Did this pitch and continued on into the Crescent Crack Direct Variation and belayed at the belay for the Final Link. A nice long pitch if you do it that way, and the Final Link is a great pitch for dessert.