|Crescent Crack Buttress
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In the gully that The Great Chockstone starts in, are 3 routes on the right wall. First, from left to right, is Who's On First a bolted slab route, last is Multiplicity, a bolted arete climb. The Ross Connection is in between these two, climbing right along a ramp to a set of flared grooves. These end on a ledge and allow you to start a second set with better gear. End at the anchors.
Pitch two climbs off the anchors right past the tree and down-climbs a bit of Crescent Crack until you can traverse into the thin crack with maybe one good piece (Blue Wild Country), and maybe a second (Yelllow Metolius). Work up this crack/slab until you can get to the chicken-head, traverse right to the pile of jumbled boulders, and set an anchor. Nothing after the 2 pieces is possible, so if the second falls, he could get bloody on a slabby pendulum.
The book calls this a 5.10c. We felt it was easier, 9+ or 10b depending on who you ask.
The book also gives this an R/X rating. We both felt a flat R was better, if you use the tree.
First pitch is flaring and it liked cams (medium), second half was more nut-friendly, and the 2nd pitch--yellow Metolius, Blue WC. Climb above the tree and then downclimb as this will help if you fall before getting any pieces in.
BETA PHOTO: 1) Who's on First
2) P1 of the Ross Connection
Maura coming up pitch 2 of the Ross Connection. T...
Maura on pitch 2 of The Ross Connection.
|By Double D SLC|
Sep 19, 2007
First pitch is good, gritty, sharp and worth a trip to the first anchors. The easy section in between the two cracks sorta detracts from the fun jamming.
|By Ben Folsom|
Sep 14, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R
To protect the seconding climber on the 2nd pitch traverse to the base of the Ross route, I climbed up to the bolt on the Ross Route, then downclimbed and set up a belay on the blocky ledge below. With that bolt clipped, the unprotected traverse is much safer for the seconding climber. Good route, I agree that it is R and not X.
From: Spokane, WA
Nov 25, 2008
It should be noted that the first pitch is 5.8, and is worth doing (one star).