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The Tool Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bum Fight S 
Don't Be A Tool S 
Gin & Juice T 
Maynard's Crossing S 
Nipple Stimulation S 
Parabola S 
Poo-Choo Train, The S 
Rosie's Cantina S 
Seth  T 
Short Cut T 
When Panties Fly S 

Rosie's Cantina 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Todd Miller '00
Page Views: 288
Submitted By: Anne McLaughlin on Jan 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Its a weird one...

Description 

Bolted gritty slab to the right of the Tool Buttress. South facing. The guidebook said it might have been the first bolted route at HCR.

Location 

Walk toward the Roman Wall from the Tool Buttress and keep an eye out for a bolted grey slab.

Protection 

4 bolts, rusty chain anchors


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By Jason Hortin
Apr 12, 2016

Great slab climbing on awesome rock! The view from the top is amazing, so don't forget your camera. Interesting climb that requires less strength and more planning/balance.
By Mark Orsag
From: Omaha, NE
May 7, 2016
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

By contrast, not a fan. Was really looking forward to getting on this "historical" slab climb, but things didn't go as planned. Definitely an "old school" lichen-slick 9-- the current guide now rates it 10a. Sort of bizarre and one of the more un slab-like slab climbs that I have been on with two quite dynamic foot-cutter moves. Got the first but missed the 2nd and took a bit of a "cheese grater." Usually love and cruise slabs in the 9-10 range, but this one bit me (so did the swarming black flies at the wooded base of the route). Anchors are dodgy, but the rock and the climbing at the top have some appeal.

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