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Roseanne 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett and James Wilson, early 80's
Page Views: 3,918
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Sep 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Route overview

Description 

This route takes a nice line to the left of the Great Pumpkin. It is a quasi "old school" route designed for the leader who has their lid screwed on pretty tight. There are some lengthy runouts on easy ground and a spot of routefinding thrown in for good measure. The knobs are dandy and the polish is mirrorlike. It is said this route is a better version of the Great Pumpkin. Maybe give this one a try instead of standing in line over at the Pumpkin.

Pitch #1: Motor up the easy corner and lob in a few cams as you go. There is a bolt at the top of the corner before you start moving right and into a few cruxy moves. Watch out for rope drag. 3 bolts total on the pitch, then a 4 bolt (two that are good) belay.

Pitch #2: Undercling up an left out of the station on some very loose plates. Clip the bolt and begin to move right and up and across the polish. You can stuff some small gear into a flake after you move right and climb up a bit. Eventually get to the right facing corner where you can lob in a nut or some cams. Belay is at the top of this corner. 3 bolts on the pitch, then a 2 bolt belay.

Pitch #3: Run it out straight up to a bolt and then continue moaning upward and slightly right. If you are lucky you will find a small flake that takes 3/4" to 1" cams. Continue straight up from this flake until you either hit a rusted 1/4" bolt or the anchor. 1 good bolt, and 1 bad hidden bolt on the pitch, then a 2 bolt belay.

Pitch #4: Go up toward the big roof and maybe plug in a 1.5" cam as you turn the corner. Exit the roofs on the right via a 5.4 ramp and look for a fixed pin about half way out. Run the rope all the way back onto the slab to belay. Overlaps up there will take small to medium cams for an anchor. No bolts, set an anchor on top.

Location 

Starts in a right facing corner/arch to the left of the Great Pumpkin. Descent is fairly straightforward, simply go up and left across the top of the dome until you can descend down endless slabs to the forest.

Protection 

Bolts protect the bulk of the face climbing, but you do need some small to medium cams and a set of wireds to protect the occasional cracks and flakes that will accept pro. All anchors, save for the summmit, are bolted. The ASCA has replaced most if not all the bolts on this route... except for one rusted 1/4" timebomb near the top of the third pitch... no worries though, because if you got that far, you won't need it.

Rack:
6-8 draws
few long slings
few wireds
1 ea cams, .5" to 2.5"


Photos of Roseanne Slideshow Add Photo
Summit exit, yep, maybe 5.4.
Summit exit, yep, maybe 5.4.
Mike Waugh leading the first pitch.
Mike Waugh leading the first pitch.
The top of pitch 3 reminds me of the sort of "...
The top of pitch 3 reminds me of the sort of "...
The crux of the first pitch
The crux of the first pitch
Susan following the first pitch.
Susan following the first pitch.
Susan higher up on the first pitch.
Susan higher up on the first pitch.
Skating over the glass on pitch 2.
Skating over the glass on pitch 2.
Friction fun at the end of p1
Friction fun at the end of p1
A bit runout on pitch 3.
A bit runout on pitch 3.
Just after pulling over the roof on pitch 4.
Just after pulling over the roof on pitch 4.

Comments on Roseanne Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jul 19, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Route named after James Wilson's daughter.... Roseanne.
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Sep 27, 2011

The cruxes on the first 2 pitches are solid 5.9, but they are well protected by bolts. I felt like all the runout climbing was 5.7 or easier. Overall, not too serious of an undertaking. Most people will probably find The Dike Route to be much more heady.

And I would also agree that Roseanne is a better route than the Great Pumpkin.
By Vlad S
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

I thought that this route is awesome! Very fun knob climbing and reasonably protected at all the cruxes. All the runouts feature easy and very secure knob pulling. Awesome for taking up a less experienced partner up or for doing on a day with high likelyhood of thunderstorms. It's easy to retreat from p1 or 2 with a 70m rope w/o leaving anything or from 3 by leaving 2 biners on anchor bolts.
By jplaut
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

I found the first pitch of this route to be really difficult and scary for both leader and follower. The second half of the pitch involves hard 5.9 moves (felt harder than many 5.10 knob climbs I've done in Tuolumne) with 15-20ft. of traversing runout between bolts. A fall from after the 1st or 2nd bolt will result in a long pendulum swing for both leader and follower and a fall before clipping the first bolt (assuming you can't get any gear in the arching seam) could result in a very ugly 60ft.+ whipper for the leader. Definitely harder and scarier than Dike Route and definitely not a route to take a beginner on, given the runout traverses. IMO, this route would be suitable for 2 solid 5.10- Tuolomne knob climbers with a fair bit of runout experience.