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Rose Tower

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Rose Tower  


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Location: 36.1178, -115.48805 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 81,176
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Apr 4, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Rose Tower formation. This photo shows the route '...

Description 

The lower, eastern flanks of Juniper Peak present an array of gullies, ridges, and buttresses. Rose Tower is the first tower south of of the complex broken cliffs of Magic Mountain. The main routes, most notably the very popular Olive Oil, are on the southeastern face of the tower. They are approached by hiking up the narrow canyon immediately to the tower's left.

The normal descent for routes on this formation is to scramble west until you can reach the steep trails in the gully on the north side of the tower (separating the tower from Magic Mountain further to the north). This descent route does not pass near the base of the routes, so it is best to carry all your gear with you.

Getting There 

The easiest approach is to hike the Knoll Trail toward Juniper Canyon. After you pass beneath the Rose Tower, follow a climbers' trail uphill to the west and enter the narrow canyon to the south of the Rose Tower. Once in the canyon, scramble over boulders along the right wall until reaching the routes.

There is a slightly more direct approach that goes through the area of the "Fire Ecology Trail." Newcomers to the area may find that this is not as obvious as the main trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.1 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',5],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rose Tower:
One-Armed Bandit   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 490'   
Olive Oil   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches, 600'   
Browse More Classics in Rose Tower

Featured Route For Rose Tower
Following pitch 2, the best pitch!

Olive Oil 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  NV : Red Rock : ... : Rose Tower
A great, easy romp with 7 quality, consistent pitches. Start well around the left side of Rose Tower, up a gully of sorts at the base of a big corner/ramp.P1: Begin at a rounded buttress just up and left from a deep recess. Climb slabby rock with sparse pro to a narrow alcove with a sandy floor and huecoed wall.P2: Climb straight up nice, exposed cracks and then step back left into the corner and then up and left to a cramped belay perch.P3: From the belay on the ledge to the left, traverse ri...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

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