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Rope Solo Lead Climbing

Original Post
Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 86

I'm sure this topic has been covered multiple times but I'd like to hear about any new input or general thoughts.
I know how dangerous this can be and how experienced one should be before doing such. Unfortunately I'm having a difficult time finding reliable partners to climb with in my neck of the woods. I'm dying to climb more and more. Instead I'm just sitting around reading and watching videos of others climb. It's killing me. So now I'm starting to gear up for solos. I intend on finding some basic routes to start with. Something with low elevation with the perfect set up to attempt this on. I'm not going to put myself on any difficult or sketchy solos until I've mastered the basics over and over again. So let's hear your thoughts and suggestions as to how and where to do this at in central/Southern California. Thank you.

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

Is it possible for you to set up top rope solos instead? This is what I have been doing when the partners are limited. I leave the harder stuff for when I have a partner.

If lead soloing... I would probably invest in a Silent Partner to be as safe as possible. Remember, you are going to be alone when doing this and if things go wrong...

There was a good article floating around awhile back, and I'll see if I can find it. It has good illustrations and detail as to how the lead solo setup was accomplished.

Edit to add:
You may need to copy and paste the link, but this article was pretty good. There are other articles with a small Google search.

rockclimbing.com/Articles/T…

Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 86

Thanks Bigfeet! Of course, I will certainly start top rope solo before I lead solo. I want to do this right. I also enjoy living. I started calling around the local gyms to see if they offer any courses or even allowed it. That was quite funny. I could here these guys jump out of their skins! They seemed appalled and offended that I would even ask such a thing. One guy interrupted me and said no before I finished the sentance. I was laughing my ass off. I get it but at the same time, why wouldn't a gym try and accommodate people interested in this? I know it's a liability thing but climbing is just that in general. Seems a gym would be the best place to learn. Am I wrong?

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
JoeGaribay wrote: Am I wrong?
Yes. Most gyms have enough sketchy behavior to worry about without adding the complication of solo TRing (not on an auto-belay) or leading. Hell, people regularly manage to mess themselves up using auto-belays. There are tons of online resources detailing different TR and solo lead systems. IMO, no system is well suited for both TR and lead climbing. I use a separate system for each. Petzl has great info on solo TR setups. There are plenty of forum threads on the use of a Silent partner as well. Read them and post up if you have specific questions.
Howard · · Costa Mesa, CA · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 2,695

I would tend to agree TR solo is more desirable if looking at rope soloing (certainly close to your limit). It's not a more advanced version of leading, just by yourself. It won't take you tight without a fall. Most people I've known who've bought SP wind up not using it after a while despite its reputation for catching falls reliably. Having scramble accessible anchors for TR set-up is a nuisance, but lead soloing is not only more work and more dangerous (as you said), it's technically involved in unexpected ways. There are amply more causes of clusters (like rope drag and snags) which aren't encountered with a partner because of the need for a ground anchor and otherwise using the rope differently for lead solo. You have to pick climbs that are amenable, which limits climbs you do. (Eg, it requires speed to catch you, so some slabs may be off the list. Also, overhangs are conducive to horrible drag, not to mention if you fall you may need ascenders to get back on/up.) That said, a small minority aren't put off and find it worthwhile.

rockexotica.com/media/wysiw…

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

A few more items to mention.

Make sure you practice what you are doing before you put your system to the real test. Better yet, if you can, find someone who is competent to show you and explain the theories of why you are doing such-and-such.

This is what I did!

This may sound stupid, but I would practice in my garage before I attempted the real thing - still do. How do I feel comfortable with my arresting devices like this? Is the length of my redundant device's attachment/sling going to interfere with the operation of my primary device? If I tie back up knots... how am I going to do this? There is much more.

This can go on a few times before you are comfortable and competent with your system.

As said above by another poster, you may get into trouble and need to get off the climb, be injured, etc. Know how to self rescue.

You see where this is going?

Oh yeah, when you are tired, sore, hungry, maybe even irritated, little things may compound into bigger things to overcome. Make sure you are dialed in.

Enough rant. Have fun and be safe. :)

Trip report is now required of you. Post it up and show us your progress.

Howard · · Costa Mesa, CA · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 2,695

One criteria for readiness is to read through the entire Silent Partner manual as linked and see how thoroughly and easily you can understand everything.

will ar · · Vermont · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 290

I've done a decent amount of roped solo on lead (mainly aiding on walls, but also multipitch free climbs) and top roped solo. I got into rope soloing primarily because I had trouble finding partners. I still occasionally top rope solo on ice if say I can't find a partner on a weekday, but for the most part I'd rather just find a partner and I always seem to have plenty of options wherever I'm living. It's probably not the advice that you want to hear, but maybe work harder to find other partners. Where exactly in California are you?

Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 86
BigFeet wrote:This may sound stupid, but I would practice in my garage before I attempted the real thing Trip report is now required of you. Post it up and show us your progress.
Not stupid at all. In fact, I'm going to start there. I have highbeams that I'll drive some hooks in to. As for a trip report, it sounds like a long way out for me. Mine will be more of a progress report. Like I mentioned, I can't find dedicated climbers. My friends mostly boulder. They shrivel up when it comes to gear and heights. I try. So for the time being I'll mostly boulder and drag my gear around in hopes that they get the urge or I can find someone that wants to progress. I post photos on instagram if you or anyone cares to gander. @joegaribay805
Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 86
Howard. wrote:http://www.rockexotica.com/media/,/rockexotica/tn/silent-partner-tech-notice.pdf
I'm on it! Thanks. I aim to do this thing right and take my time
Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 86
will ar wrote:I've done a decent amount of roped solo on lead (mainly aiding on walls, but also multipitch free climbs) and top roped solo. I got into rope soloing primarily because I had trouble finding partners. I still occasionally top rope solo on ice if say I can't find a partner on a weekday, but for the most part I'd rather just find a partner and I always seem to have plenty of options wherever I'm living. It's probably not the advice that you want to hear, but maybe work harder to find other partners. Where exactly in California are you?
Its true. I need to talk to more climbers, more often. I'm safe, studious, smart, and I push myself. I'm sure I'll get it going bere pretty quick. I've mostly bouldered. Seems to be a tighter group of climbers. Id mostly climb with friends and do our own thing. Sportand trad seems to be more benifical to collaborate and learn. I live north of los angeles and south of santa barbara. Ventura county.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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