Rope Solo Lead Climbing
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I'm sure this topic has been covered multiple times but I'd like to hear about any new input or general thoughts. |
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Is it possible for you to set up top rope solos instead? This is what I have been doing when the partners are limited. I leave the harder stuff for when I have a partner. |
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Thanks Bigfeet! Of course, I will certainly start top rope solo before I lead solo. I want to do this right. I also enjoy living. I started calling around the local gyms to see if they offer any courses or even allowed it. That was quite funny. I could here these guys jump out of their skins! They seemed appalled and offended that I would even ask such a thing. One guy interrupted me and said no before I finished the sentance. I was laughing my ass off. I get it but at the same time, why wouldn't a gym try and accommodate people interested in this? I know it's a liability thing but climbing is just that in general. Seems a gym would be the best place to learn. Am I wrong? |
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JoeGaribay wrote: Am I wrong?Yes. Most gyms have enough sketchy behavior to worry about without adding the complication of solo TRing (not on an auto-belay) or leading. Hell, people regularly manage to mess themselves up using auto-belays. There are tons of online resources detailing different TR and solo lead systems. IMO, no system is well suited for both TR and lead climbing. I use a separate system for each. Petzl has great info on solo TR setups. There are plenty of forum threads on the use of a Silent partner as well. Read them and post up if you have specific questions. |
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I would tend to agree TR solo is more desirable if looking at rope soloing (certainly close to your limit). It's not a more advanced version of leading, just by yourself. It won't take you tight without a fall. Most people I've known who've bought SP wind up not using it after a while despite its reputation for catching falls reliably. Having scramble accessible anchors for TR set-up is a nuisance, but lead soloing is not only more work and more dangerous (as you said), it's technically involved in unexpected ways. There are amply more causes of clusters (like rope drag and snags) which aren't encountered with a partner because of the need for a ground anchor and otherwise using the rope differently for lead solo. You have to pick climbs that are amenable, which limits climbs you do. (Eg, it requires speed to catch you, so some slabs may be off the list. Also, overhangs are conducive to horrible drag, not to mention if you fall you may need ascenders to get back on/up.) That said, a small minority aren't put off and find it worthwhile. |
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A few more items to mention. |
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One criteria for readiness is to read through the entire Silent Partner manual as linked and see how thoroughly and easily you can understand everything. |
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I've done a decent amount of roped solo on lead (mainly aiding on walls, but also multipitch free climbs) and top roped solo. I got into rope soloing primarily because I had trouble finding partners. I still occasionally top rope solo on ice if say I can't find a partner on a weekday, but for the most part I'd rather just find a partner and I always seem to have plenty of options wherever I'm living. It's probably not the advice that you want to hear, but maybe work harder to find other partners. Where exactly in California are you? |
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BigFeet wrote:This may sound stupid, but I would practice in my garage before I attempted the real thing Trip report is now required of you. Post it up and show us your progress.Not stupid at all. In fact, I'm going to start there. I have highbeams that I'll drive some hooks in to. As for a trip report, it sounds like a long way out for me. Mine will be more of a progress report. Like I mentioned, I can't find dedicated climbers. My friends mostly boulder. They shrivel up when it comes to gear and heights. I try. So for the time being I'll mostly boulder and drag my gear around in hopes that they get the urge or I can find someone that wants to progress. I post photos on instagram if you or anyone cares to gander. @joegaribay805 |
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Howard. wrote:http://www.rockexotica.com/media/,/rockexotica/tn/silent-partner-tech-notice.pdfI'm on it! Thanks. I aim to do this thing right and take my time |
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will ar wrote:I've done a decent amount of roped solo on lead (mainly aiding on walls, but also multipitch free climbs) and top roped solo. I got into rope soloing primarily because I had trouble finding partners. I still occasionally top rope solo on ice if say I can't find a partner on a weekday, but for the most part I'd rather just find a partner and I always seem to have plenty of options wherever I'm living. It's probably not the advice that you want to hear, but maybe work harder to find other partners. Where exactly in California are you?Its true. I need to talk to more climbers, more often. I'm safe, studious, smart, and I push myself. I'm sure I'll get it going bere pretty quick. I've mostly bouldered. Seems to be a tighter group of climbers. Id mostly climb with friends and do our own thing. Sportand trad seems to be more benifical to collaborate and learn. I live north of los angeles and south of santa barbara. Ventura county. |