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Rope for New Hampshire Climbing
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By PatCleary
From Rohnert Park, CA
Oct 30, 2013

I live in California, my parents live in NH. I'm headed home at Christmas with the intention of doing a fair amount of climbing, probably primarily top roping ice, although an easy alpine route wouldn't be out of the realm of possibility. I'm also home a couple times a year, and would like to start sampling some of NH climbing.

I have decent ropes for this in CA, but I'm considering buying another rope to leave on the east coast. They're a pain to pack, can easily push you into needing to check luggage, and to be honest, I'd rather travel with a dozen draws, a small rack a harness and a pair of shoes.

What I need help with is bracketing requirements for NH climbing. I know that at least on some Cannon climbs a pair of doubles is generally considered the way to go. Is a single manageable? Any thoughts on length? Are most climbs bolted for 50s? 60s?

Obviously not looking to spend a bunch of money on a rope I'll be lucky to spend a week a year with. If doubles are the way to go, I think I'll be flying with them.

Patrick


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By john strand
From southern colo
Oct 30, 2013

Pat, i climbed in NH for many years,all over , f/a's and everything and used doubles maybe 5 times. Now this was 99% rock so...

There are few routes with 60m pitches unless you are linking,, BUT a 60m for raps is a good idea. A lot of the Trad cliffs are walk offs are walk offs

order a rope and have it sent there ?!


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By chris magness
Oct 30, 2013

You described need for 3 different ropes. If you're going to be heavily top roping, particularly in winter when wet ropes can have more stretch, you should be using a fatter rope. On Alpine climbs, a 9.4 70 is great. A 9.8 60 dry treated rope would serve you well, look into Sterling (great ropes and local).


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By PatCleary
From Rohnert Park, CA
Oct 30, 2013

I know it'll end up being somewhere middle of the road on everything. If weight/speed is really a factor on a project then I'll drag my nice 9.2 dry from CA. Probably looking at a 9.6 or 9.8 mm rope. My intention is not to fall while climbing ice, so a little extra stretch isn't the end of the world.

Pat


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By tradjunkie
Oct 31, 2013

Um, not to ask the obvious question, but who will you be climbing with in NH, and why can't you use their rope?


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By PatCleary
From Rohnert Park, CA
Oct 31, 2013

Buddy from CA who's parent's live in MA, family, HS friends that don't climb (much). Plus possibly bored day/unable to find partner Mini Trax sessions.

Patrick


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By JCM
From Golden, CO
Oct 31, 2013

chris magness wrote:
A 9.8 60 dry treated rope would serve you well,


If you are going to try to have one rope to use for all styles, all seasons, this is the one to go with.

Since you'll be using it on ice, consider a dry treatment mandatory.


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By Peter Jackson
From Rumney, NH
Nov 1, 2013
Just in case the two big belay anchors aren't obvious enough for you, here is where to find the belay station.

JCM wrote:
If you are going to try to have one rope to use for all styles, all seasons, this is the one to go with. Since you'll be using it on ice, consider a dry treatment mandatory.


+1 for a 60m 9.8mm.

Even if you are only climbing rock, it's NH. Get the super-double-dry. You will climbing in the rain at least once or twice. Each month.

Some of the new routes going in assume a 60m rope, but you'll still have plenty of options with a 50m. I wish more folks used double technique, but it's something of a dying art out here.


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By Nick Goldsmith
Nov 1, 2013

If i was going to be stuck with Only one rope i would go with a 70m as that might help you with some rappels. If the OP is going to be primarly top ropeing a then buy the fattest cheapest dry rope you can find. top ropeing trashes a rope more that just about anything so durrability trumps weight.


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By Kari Post
From Keene, NH
Nov 1, 2013

Most climbers I know here who have only one rope have a 60m. I think 60m 9.8 dry treated (as others have suggested) is a great plan.


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By PatCleary
From Rohnert Park, CA
Nov 11, 2013

Ended up buying a 60M Mammut Galaxy Superdry. Seems like a pretty good compromise route and got a great price. Thanks for the assistance everyone.

Might look for a set of 50s later on, although they'd live with me.


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By john strand
From southern colo
Nov 11, 2013

Nice..IMO the best 10mm around, i have had several


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By PatCleary
From Rohnert Park, CA
Nov 11, 2013

I wish I could say I put a lot of thought and research into it. It popped up on Steep and Cheap, was cheap, had all the bells and whistles, and I didn't need to carry it on a plane to get it there.


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By S. Neoh
Nov 11, 2013

Galaxy is a good rope. I retired mine due to age and not wear or mushiness.


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