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Rope for New Hampshire Climbing
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Oct 30, 2013
I live in California, my parents live in NH. I'm headed home at Christmas with the intention of doing a fair amount of climbing, probably primarily top roping ice, although an easy alpine route wouldn't be out of the realm of possibility. I'm also home a couple times a year, and would like to start sampling some of NH climbing.

I have decent ropes for this in CA, but I'm considering buying another rope to leave on the east coast. They're a pain to pack, can easily push you into needing to check luggage, and to be honest, I'd rather travel with a dozen draws, a small rack a harness and a pair of shoes.

What I need help with is bracketing requirements for NH climbing. I know that at least on some Cannon climbs a pair of doubles is generally considered the way to go. Is a single manageable? Any thoughts on length? Are most climbs bolted for 50s? 60s?

Obviously not looking to spend a bunch of money on a rope I'll be lucky to spend a week a year with. If doubles are the way to go, I think I'll be flying with them.

Patrick
PatCleary
From Rohnert Park, CA
Joined Sep 23, 2011
0 points
Oct 30, 2013
Pat, i climbed in NH for many years,all over , f/a's and everything and used doubles maybe 5 times. Now this was 99% rock so...

There are few routes with 60m pitches unless you are linking,, BUT a 60m for raps is a good idea. A lot of the Trad cliffs are walk offs are walk offs

order a rope and have it sent there ?!
john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,274 points
Oct 30, 2013
You described need for 3 different ropes. If you're going to be heavily top roping, particularly in winter when wet ropes can have more stretch, you should be using a fatter rope. On Alpine climbs, a 9.4 70 is great. A 9.8 60 dry treated rope would serve you well, look into Sterling (great ropes and local). chris magness
Joined Oct 29, 2010
578 points
Oct 30, 2013
I know it'll end up being somewhere middle of the road on everything. If weight/speed is really a factor on a project then I'll drag my nice 9.2 dry from CA. Probably looking at a 9.6 or 9.8 mm rope. My intention is not to fall while climbing ice, so a little extra stretch isn't the end of the world.

Pat
PatCleary
From Rohnert Park, CA
Joined Sep 23, 2011
0 points
Oct 31, 2013
Um, not to ask the obvious question, but who will you be climbing with in NH, and why can't you use their rope? tradjunkie
Joined May 18, 2011
0 points
Oct 31, 2013
Buddy from CA who's parent's live in MA, family, HS friends that don't climb (much). Plus possibly bored day/unable to find partner Mini Trax sessions.

Patrick
PatCleary
From Rohnert Park, CA
Joined Sep 23, 2011
0 points
Oct 31, 2013
chris magness wrote:
A 9.8 60 dry treated rope would serve you well,


If you are going to try to have one rope to use for all styles, all seasons, this is the one to go with.

Since you'll be using it on ice, consider a dry treatment mandatory.
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
53 points
Nov 1, 2013
Just in case the two big belay anchors aren't obvi...
JCM wrote:
If you are going to try to have one rope to use for all styles, all seasons, this is the one to go with. Since you'll be using it on ice, consider a dry treatment mandatory.


+1 for a 60m 9.8mm.

Even if you are only climbing rock, it's NH. Get the super-double-dry. You will climbing in the rain at least once or twice. Each month.

Some of the new routes going in assume a 60m rope, but you'll still have plenty of options with a 50m. I wish more folks used double technique, but it's something of a dying art out here.
Peter Jackson
From Rumney, NH
Joined Aug 9, 2010
589 points
Nov 1, 2013
If i was going to be stuck with Only one rope i would go with a 70m as that might help you with some rappels. If the OP is going to be primarly top ropeing a then buy the fattest cheapest dry rope you can find. top ropeing trashes a rope more that just about anything so durrability trumps weight. Nick Goldsmith
Joined Aug 23, 2009
190 points
Nov 1, 2013
Me climbing in Jamaica, VT. Photo by Rachel Squire...
Most climbers I know here who have only one rope have a 60m. I think 60m 9.8 dry treated (as others have suggested) is a great plan. Kari Post
From Keene, NH
Joined Sep 13, 2012
103 points
Nov 11, 2013
Ended up buying a 60M Mammut Galaxy Superdry. Seems like a pretty good compromise route and got a great price. Thanks for the assistance everyone.

Might look for a set of 50s later on, although they'd live with me.
PatCleary
From Rohnert Park, CA
Joined Sep 23, 2011
0 points
Nov 11, 2013
Nice..IMO the best 10mm around, i have had several john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,274 points
Nov 11, 2013
I wish I could say I put a lot of thought and research into it. It popped up on Steep and Cheap, was cheap, had all the bells and whistles, and I didn't need to carry it on a plane to get it there. PatCleary
From Rohnert Park, CA
Joined Sep 23, 2011
0 points
Nov 11, 2013
Galaxy is a good rope. I retired mine due to age and not wear or mushiness. S. Neoh
Joined Oct 4, 2009
482 points


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