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Southwest Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bush Crack T 
Cubes T 
En Passant 
Little Bishop 
Retroshrub T 
Rope Eater T 
Unknown T 
Unsorted Routes:

Rope Eater 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 279
Submitted By: caughtinside on Nov 10, 2010

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Description 

Rope Eater is a fun crack climb with a bouldery start off some cheatstones to get established in the bomb bay wide section. Sleaze right to the lip of the roof, then boulder out the roof section on good holds and jams, before finishing on the .6/.7 handcrack section.

This climb is indeed a rope eater, and if you hang on either boulder problem the rope will get sucked into the crack. this happened to us, and we were able to retrieve it by having the second hang on a couple cams, untie, and pull the rope through from above.


Location 

about 80 feet left of Bush Crack. on the approach, it looks like an easy corner crack, when you get close in behind the boulders you see the roof start. cheatstones at the base.


Protection 

fingers to hand sized cams, I placed a thin nut as well. largish cams for the anchors.



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