|Type:||Trad, 7 pitches, 800', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||James Garrett and Felix Hörmann, 6 July 2009|
|Season:||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Submitted By:||James Garrett on Jul 7, 2009|
|Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Root Of Boll Weevil||Add Comment|
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From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 14, 2010
Tried this line last weekend, here's a bit more beta to supplement James'.
. P1: stout slabbing right off the ground. The bolts seem laughably close at first but end up right where you want them on lead. 5.9+ warmup.
. P2: interesting slab moves to the slopping ledge. The roof, as described, is puzzling. Power undercling to a brutal lieback with terrible feet, took me forever to see the sequence and even longer to commit. The finger crack above turns into a steep flared groove (uninspiring gear) to a steep technical slab/face. Overall a varied and sustained pitch, 5.10++ at the roof (felt 11- to me) and PG13: you get gear in the undercling but once you get over the roof you're committed until you sink a finger lock. Your partner can't see you and if you blow it ankles + slab = pain.
. P3: great finger/hand cracks, the scrub oak has grown back a bit but doesn't detract from the fun. Strange bolts on the gritty steep slab that we bypassed to stay in a more obvious crack out right. 5.8 grit, tape or weep. If the large stump falls off (it wiggles quite a bit) this will get harder. 5.8ish
. P4: unremarkable jungle/choss to a now tree-infested corner to get on the slab. The cracks above are fun and super gritty. 5.8ish
. P5: fun chickenhead moves out the huge roof to a groove to the coolest finger crack/face. Too bad it's only 20' cause that section is a gem. 5.8ish for the upper face moves
. P6: this is where the fun stopped for us with a harder version of the P2 roof. We couldn't figure out the sequence based on the description and had to choose between an impossibly hard shelf mantle to get to the "monster knob" or some wild deadpoint out right to a chickenhead to some serious boulder problem. Once again OK gear but hitting the slab seems like a real possibility and we decided to call it. Burly 5.10+++ PG13 or we missed something. Props for pulling through that one JG, not sure I'd even be able to TR it.
We rappelled the route with no incidents. Rack recommendation was spot on, didn't see a spot for a #5, wished for doubles in the .3/.4 range until I looked around a bit and found other options. Long runners helpful.
Overall a cool line with great position and good rock quality until the halfway point (typical Bells). It seemed a bit forced in places with some real stopper moves.
We felt like 10+ was quite the old school sandbag. Can't speak for my partner but I'm a wuss and not that strong so take it with a grain of salt.
Definitely type II fun, still wondering if I'll go back to try and figure out the upper pitch...