This route lies just right of the Batrachian Slab -- a huge left facing dihedral that separates the left side of the Pear from the central section.
P1: Climb up easy face, and low-angle cracks to the base of a thin crack that ascends a steep bulge and then peters out. Climb the thin crack -- tricky 5.8, and climb easy face to a stance under the left side of a long roof band. Clip a new bolt -- this can be backed up with small TCUs. Turn the roof -- 5.9, and jam a crack to a small sloping stance.
P2: Follow a pleasant 5.7 crack and where it ends, face climb diagonally up and right to the base of another crack. Belay on a nice ledge.
P3: Follow the crack until it reaches a long wide ledge that runs up and left. From here, you can walk off by following the big ledge around the corner and third classing into the west descent gully, or follow the last pitch of Chrome Plated Stupidly Named yadda yadda to the summit.
Take small TCUs to back up the bolt [the old bolt has now been replaced with a nice modern one]. Standard rack.
Climbing the 5.8 "crack". Hint - don't climb the c...
Starting the crux roof.
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch of Root of All Evil. The hardest ...
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 23, 2003
Fun route. I thought the thin 5.8 crack below the roof was the crux. "Tricky" is accurate. The face climbing above the 5.7 crack is a little hairy I thought. The climbing is not hard, but my feet felt like they had sand under them because of all the tiny little flakes that would crumble when I stepped on them. There is no gear for quite a ways. Again, straightforward climbing but the lack of gear and crumbly rock should make you respect this 5.5 climbing. One option woulld be to lead one long pitch up to the fixed anchors of Sibling Rivalry, which are 20 feet to the left of where the 5.7 crack fades out (205'). You could then rap off of these anchors, traversing right to the tree at the roof (which is to the right of Root of All Evil's crux). Another rap off of this tree, which has slings and rings, puts you to the ground. This option would require a 60m rope. JGH
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 21, 2003
The 5.8 "crack" on pitch one goes reasonably via the face on the right, once you see it. There are mediocre cams above this straight down in upward pointing flakes. Not great, but helps a bit on the easier runout climbing. If you are linking to pitch 2 or to Sibling Rivalry, use a long sling on the bolt and get good cams above the lip of the roof.
|By Errett Allen|
Jun 14, 2004
The diagonal face climbing mentioned on pitch 2 involves a [mandatory] 60 foot runout -- better be solid on easy (5.5/6) slab. A quicker way off after pitch 3 is to do some easy slab diagonally up/right which puts you low on the east ridge and quickly into the east descent gully.
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
I found the crux of the first pitch to be the thin crack halfway up. A red/yellow hybrid Alien provided bomber pro for the tricky move up the face right of the crack. Another dicey move (with bad fall consequences) led to easier ground, where I got in a yellow Alien and a #2 Maxcam pointing straight down in a small slot. From here, easy face climbing led to the roof.
The roof was protected by a new bolt, and was a straightforward jug haul with good hold for both hands.
This is an excellent and exciting pitch and a great start to Sibling Rivalry.
|By Danny Inman|
Aug 1, 2006
Did this as the start to Sibling Rivalry. This pitch is really fun with some exciting moves above your gear. I agree with others, if you are a strength-oriented climber who feels less than cozy on friction, the crux is exiting the thin crack on to the friction. After the a couple tricky moves the climbing eases considerably until the bolt. The roof is very secure with large holds.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 18, 2007
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
In the event of threatening weather, you can make a traverse right to the tree at the end of P1. Once at the tree, you can go up higher to place pro and make the traverse safer for those who follow. IMHO, softest 9+ at Lumpy to date. Note, the 2nd pitch is quite enjoyable. It is probably as good as Sibling Rivalry, albeit a bit easier.
|By Phill T|
Jun 4, 2011
On the runout traverse - definitely keeps you on your toes, but the last 20-30 feet are on a bomber hand rail that is super secure leading you into the crack system (with bomber pro right away). There are some thin moves 15-20 feet into it though, so keep your cool!
The p1 roof was the easiest part of the pitch as soon as you find the trail of jugs.