A very enjoyable, well bolted route with an airy, intimidating roof right at the top.
P1 (Rookie of the Year 5.9, 40') Start on the left side of the alcove that sits at the bottom right of the buttress. Climb up and over a small overhang using large, but somewhat suspect holds on fractured, light-colored rock. There is a spot before the overhang which will swallow most of your left leg, allowing a no hands rest (although you shouldn’t need it at that point). After surmounting the overhang using good footwork continue on lower-angled rock to the anchors.
P2 (An All Star 5.10a, 100') Start up on good quality, hard, reddish quartzite on the right side of the arete forming the southeast corner of the buttress. As you approach the arete you’ll come very close to the route to the left. Stay on the right bolted line.
Follow the bolts through a shallow dihedral/trough to a small roof. After overcoming this obstacle look up at the final roof and think, “Oh surely not!” That, however, is your goal. Climb up past a couple of bolts to just underneath the roof. Clip the bolt at the lip and remember that it is .10a. The moves over the roof are airy, extremely enjoyable, and most remarkably, not terribly strenuous.
Located on a tall buttress on the north side of the canyon, at the west end, just before the terrain starts sloping down to the west. Find the east-most (right-most) line of bolts on the shattered, white rock below that leads up the buttress above. There are two other routes up the upper buttress; this is the right-most (the others, from left to right are .10c and .9). There is also a short, one-pitch, bolted line to this route’s right.
P1 6 or 7 bolts, hangers-and-rings anchors.
P2 12 bolts, anchor is bolts and hangers with large chains attached.
|By Jeff Jones|
From: Elk Ridge, UT
Oct 24, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
WOW! I had done the 5.9 to the left and thought it was fun but this was way cool. I think all of these climbs just need some more climbing to clean up a bit. Maybe that white rock will never clean up, but it sure makes you climb with more thought given that any hold can break at any time. There were several enjoyable sections but the roof was definitely the best move on the route. Once again, hats off to DK for setting yet another great route.
|By Brandon Bishoff|
From: Austin, TX
Aug 26, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
I thought the roof there at the end is really cool. It looks just about impossible until you find that hold out of sight that is so perfect you just can't help but grin. It was a bit of a stretch for me and i'm pretty tall, so this may be a bit hard for shorter people.
We did Covey Raven as the first pitch and An All Star as the second, so the start was really hard for us. That pitch felt harder that a 10.a to me.
The rock on the first pitch is junk (like most of the stuff on this side of the canyon) but the 2nd pitch has beautiful solid rock that makes the climb worth it.