|413 page views|
Three pitch route, on the right side of Turkey Tail. Doesn't get done much, which is a shame. The first pitch is good, and the second is excellent.
P1 (5.10-) Begin just right of the bolted scoop on Journey to Ixtlan. Follow a wide crack past two horizontals. This crack becomes slabbier and thinner. From atop the slab, move left across thin face holds, and up the corner to a hanging belay off two fixed wires. This spot is also the top of the second pitch (slab pitch) of "Journey to Ixtlan." It's best to extend the belay to well-below the fixed wires, or the crux of p2 will be super awkward. You'll want a single set to #4 or #5 on this pitch.
P2 (5.11d) - Past the fixed wires, a powerful sequence up into the tips corner (blue alien size) leads to excellent laybacking and stemming through the hanging dihedral. Undercling left out the roof, and belay off thin-hands gear. Watch rope beneath lip of roof.
P3 (5.7) - Head up left past a small tree, and up the obvious corner. Top-out by moving up and right to the summit.
Descent - Find a two-bolt rap anchor on the far East (climber's right) edge of the summit area, and rap to the East. Walk east on a large ledge and rappel again off a slung block anchor. One 60m rope is fine.
This is just right of Journey to Ixtlan , on the far right side of Turkey Tail. The crux dihedral on p2 is visible from the ground.
Single set to #4 or #5 (big cams only needed on p1) but take a good selection of RPs and cams in the blue and green Alien size.
From: Petaluma California
Jun 4, 2010
I needed to work this a few times, and then watched my Buddy Dennis Strom on sight the thing in 1999. In 1996 I watched another friend take a fall on some tat that was left by the FA. Removed that thing attached to an "historic hex".