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This is a three pitch route on the right side of Turkey Tail. It doesn't get done much, which is a shame. The first pitch is good, and the second is excellent.
P1 (5.10-). Begin just right of the bolted scoop on Journey to Ixtlan
. Follow a wide crack past two horizontals. This crack becomes slabbier and thinner. From atop the slab, move left across thin face holds, and up the corner to a hanging belay off two fixed wires. This spot is also the top of the second pitch (slab pitch) of "Journey to Ixtlan
." It's best to extend the belay to well-below the fixed wires, or the crux of p2 will be super awkward. You'll want a single set to #4 or #5 on this pitch.
P2 (5.11d). Past the fixed wires, a powerful sequence up into the tips corner (blue alien size) leads to excellent laybacking and stemming through the hanging dihedral. Undercling left out the roof, and belay off thin-hands gear. Watch rope beneath lip of roof.
P3 (5.7). Head up left past a small tree, and up the obvious corner. Top out by moving up and right to the summit.
Descent - find a two-bolt rap anchor on the far East (climber's right) edge of the summit area, and rap to the East. Walk east on a large ledge and rappel again off a slung block anchor. One 60m rope is fine.
This is just right of Journey to Ixtlan
, on the far right side of Turkey Tail. The crux dihedral on p2 is visible from the ground.
Single set to #4 or #5 (big cams only needed on p1) but take a good selection of RPs and cams in the blue and green Alien size.
From: Petaluma California
Jun 4, 2010
I needed to work this a few times, and then watched my Buddy Dennis Strom on sight the thing in 1999. In 1996 I watched another friend take a fall on some tat that was left by the FA. Removed that thing attached to an "historic hex".