Roofus  5.11d

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  Submitted By:  blakeherrington on Apr 12, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Three pitch route, on the right side of Turkey Tail. Doesn't get done much, which is a shame. The first pitch is good, and the second is excellent.

P1 (5.10-) Begin just right of the bolted scoop on Journey to Ixtlan. Follow a wide crack past two horizontals. This crack becomes slabbier and thinner. From atop the slab, move left across thin face holds, and up the corner to a hanging belay off two fixed wires. This spot is also the top of the second pitch (slab pitch) of "Journey to Ixtlan." It's best to extend the belay to well-below the fixed wires, or the crux of p2 will be super awkward. You'll want a single set to #4 or #5 on this pitch.

P2 (5.11d) - Past the fixed wires, a powerful sequence up into the tips corner (blue alien size) leads to excellent laybacking and stemming through the hanging dihedral. Undercling left out the roof, and belay off thin-hands gear. Watch rope beneath lip of roof.

P3 (5.7) - Head up left past a small tree, and up the obvious corner. Top-out by moving up and right to the summit.

Descent - Find a two-bolt rap anchor on the far East (climber's right) edge of the summit area, and rap to the East. Walk east on a large ledge and rappel again off a slung block anchor. One 60m rope is fine.

Location 

This is just right of Journey to Ixtlan , on the far right side of Turkey Tail. The crux dihedral on p2 is visible from the ground.

Protection 

Single set to #4 or #5 (big cams only needed on p1) but take a good selection of RPs and cams in the blue and green Alien size.