Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Turkey Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brush Turkey 
Captain Hook 
Chop, The 
Double Trouble 
Drumstick Direct 
East Side Story 
Easy Offwidth 
For Turkeys Only 
Gobble This 
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack 
I Turkey/ Resurrection 
In Search of Unicorns 
Inner Reaches 
Jello Party 
Johnny Lat 
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) 
Left Side of the Key 
Live Fire 
Make the Cut 
Piece of Cake 
Quivering Quill 
Rasmussen Crack 
Spider Lady 
Squeeze Chimney 
Turkey in the Straw 
Turkey Turd 
Turkey's Delight 
Whimsical Dreams 
Wild Turkey 
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) 


YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 456
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Apr 12, 2010
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


Three pitch route, on the right side of Turkey Tail. Doesn't get done much, which is a shame. The first pitch is good, and the second is excellent.

P1 (5.10-) Begin just right of the bolted scoop on Journey to Ixtlan. Follow a wide crack past two horizontals. This crack becomes slabbier and thinner. From atop the slab, move left across thin face holds, and up the corner to a hanging belay off two fixed wires. This spot is also the top of the second pitch (slab pitch) of "Journey to Ixtlan." It's best to extend the belay to well-below the fixed wires, or the crux of p2 will be super awkward. You'll want a single set to #4 or #5 on this pitch.

P2 (5.11d) - Past the fixed wires, a powerful sequence up into the tips corner (blue alien size) leads to excellent laybacking and stemming through the hanging dihedral. Undercling left out the roof, and belay off thin-hands gear. Watch rope beneath lip of roof.

P3 (5.7) - Head up left past a small tree, and up the obvious corner. Top-out by moving up and right to the summit.

Descent - Find a two-bolt rap anchor on the far East (climber's right) edge of the summit area, and rap to the East. Walk east on a large ledge and rappel again off a slung block anchor. One 60m rope is fine.


This is just right of Journey to Ixtlan , on the far right side of Turkey Tail. The crux dihedral on p2 is visible from the ground.


Single set to #4 or #5 (big cams only needed on p1) but take a good selection of RPs and cams in the blue and green Alien size.

Comments on Roofus Add Comment
Show which comments
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Jun 4, 2010

I needed to work this a few times, and then watched my Buddy Dennis Strom on sight the thing in 1999. In 1996 I watched another friend take a fall on some tat that was left by the FA. Removed that thing attached to an "historic hex".