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Mill Creek Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Dreams  S 
Bulge to Groove T,TR 
Chimney T,TR 
Deflator-Mouse T,S 
Dihedral T,TR 
Dirty Boulevard, The S 
Eye of the Tiger S 
Face T,TR 
Face (left of Freeway) TR 
Feline Antics S 
Freeway T,TR 
Groper S,TR 
Honey Pot T,TR 
Joint Therapy S 
Jug Haul T,TR 
Lou Reed  T 
Pit of Despair, The T,S 
Scantily Trad T 
Slot Machine S 
Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) T 
Sweet Petite S 
Turning Point S 

Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: pre 1980s? Drew Spaulding, 1992?, Harald Harb
Page Views: 591
Submitted By: Harald Harb on Aug 26, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Gordo getting into the fun stuff.


Start at the right of Jug Haul, follow the bottom, left-trending dihedral up an obvious open seam. Work up to the roof and follow the crack under and on the side of the roof. There are no anchors. Secure yourself with gear, and move right to the set of anchor on the next climb to rap or lower.


Start [right] of Jug Haul, go to the obvious, right angle roof, climb out to the right of the roof.


Small tri-cams up to a #2 cam.

Photos of Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun roof and exposure.
BETA PHOTO: Fun roof and exposure.

Comments on Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) Add Comment
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By Drew Spaulding
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 18, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is an area I climbed at many years ago in the early nineties. I first toproped this line "Roof Rack" in probably 1992 and within that next year I came back to lead it also. I remember thinking it was 5.9+/10.a and certainly remember that distinct roof crack! I never did give it a name, because I was surely convinced that someone had climbed this obvious line before I did (probably in the '60s, '70s, and '80s). Good to see there is more lines to climb up there now!
By Marc Syrene
Sep 2, 2016

Wow, we used to climb these in the '80s via top rope and trad. The route Roof Rack was one of our favorite trad routes. We used to call it Smokin' John, because the first one of us to lead it was John Huellet, and he liked to smoke cigarettes at the base of the climb. Some of us grew up near here. It was fun to come back and climb many of these routes that are now bolted and many new lines we never tried. If I'm not mistaken, we found an old piton in the route.
By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
Sep 6, 2016

Things have changed dramatically here. I'm bolting new routes right now. This is a terrific climbing area all located within a few minutes hike. Be aware, "Roof Rack" is the only climb at the Crag that doesn't have bolted anchors. You have to scramble over to the Jug Haul anchors. Trad route, no bolts on Roof Rack.

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