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Upper Mount Scott
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Roof Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Herndon
Page Views: 725
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Dec 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: The route goes through the crack in the large boul...

Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Good introduction to roof climbing. Turning the roof is the crux.

Location 

Roof crack in a huge boulder.

Protection 

Gear to #3, no anchor.


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By jcomp
From: OKC, OK
Jun 10, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is an excellent route. Challenging and exciting. The crux is continually hard. The start has some questionable rock with stiff moves to open but the top is a beautiful hand crack problem. There are various ways to pull the crux just don't forget to use your feet! The jams are solid and the gear placements plentiful.
By Mark Herndon
Feb 6, 2010

I soloed the FA's of this one and Roof Corner to the right in about twenty minutes. Jon Frank was there and gave them lame names. Never thought anyone would even do these things back then. I rated them both .10a. Had to climb up and down Roof Crack a couple of times to milk the handjams right. Way harder than Hobbit Roof in JTree, but almost identical.

I wanted to name them Crack of Noon (roof) and Piece of Crack (corner). The corner one is kind of awkward and crappy. Piece of Crap would also be a good name.
By C. Archibald
Jan 13, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I enjoyed this route. The fun parts are short, unfortunately.