Roof Crack 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Mark Herndon |
| Submitted By: | Craig Childre on Dec 15, 2006 |
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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Good introduction to roof climbing. Turning the roof is the crux.
Location Roof crack in a huge boulder.
Protection Gear to #3, no anchor.
By jcomp From: OKC, OK Jun 10, 2007 rating: 5.9+
| This is an excellent route. Challenging and exciting. The crux is continually hard. The start has some questionable rock with stiff moves to open but the top is a beautiful hand crack problem. There are various ways to pull the crux just don't forget to use your feet! The jams are solid and the gear placements plentiful. |
By Mark Herndon Feb 6, 2010
| I soloed the FA's of this one and Roof Corner to the right in about twenty minutes. Jon Frank was there and gave them lame names. Never thought anyone would even do these things back then. I rated them both .10a. Had to climb up and down Roof Crack a couple of times to milk the handjams right. Way harder than Hobbit Roof in JTree, but almost identical. I wanted to name them Crack of Noon (roof) and Piece of Crack (corner). The corner one is kind of awkward and crappy. Piece of Crap would also be a good name. |
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