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The East End
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Thief of Wives 

Roof Burner 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Nate Postma, 1991
Page Views: 3,159
Submitted By: Darin Limvere on May 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (76)
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Description 

Roof Burner is a great route for the grade at the bluff. Not very technical but quite sustained and pumpy. Climb up the slab to the right and traverse left to the first bolt. From there move left through the first roof. Climb up and a bit right on increasingly pumpy holds. At the second roof, traverse right across it's lower lip to a bolt above. Pull the second roof and straight to the chains from there. There aren't really any good rests on this route. A large spray painted area is at the base of this climb. Just around the corner from the "Winter Wall" easily recognized by the two roofs next to a left facing corner.

Protection 

bolts, bring a shoulder sling for the first bolt


Photos of Roof Burner Slideshow Add Photo
moving through the first roof
moving through the first roof
The line going up over the two roofs is Roof Burne...
BETA PHOTO: The line going up over the two roofs is Roof Burne...

Comments on Roof Burner Add Comment
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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 1, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

The wandering nature of this climb makes it long and pumpy. Bring a long sling for the bolt under the roof to reduce drag.
By ferrells
Oct 25, 2007

The easiest roofy route at Red Wing, and one of the best routes. The character changes a couple of times, and the rock is good.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 25, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

goes on gear. small nuts. singles of blue, yellow, orange TCUs; singles of #2,3 camalots. three to four 24" runners.
By Mark Wehde
May 2, 2010

The route description doesn't agree with my recollection of this climb. I believe the climb goes to the right of the bolt line, directly over the first roof. It is significantly harder this way, I believe its 5.11 rating is correct. Climbed as described, it seems more an alternative finish to Barn Dance and definitely no harder than 5.9.
By Evan Johnson
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 11, 2011

Q1: What is the bolt off to the right of the bolt line for? There would be some crazy rope drag if you were to clip it along with any of the others to the left. It appears to be by itself.

Q2: Is the jug on the left side of the first roof off route? Haven't seen any responses to Mark Wehde's comment.
By Sue and Jim
Aug 27, 2011

Re: Mark Wehde's comment, the route did historically go right at the first roof. The crack above & left of the first roof was off route. A few years back the key hold on the face above the roof broke making the move over the roof, not using the crack, harder than before ... Probably 5.12 something. The route also historically used the bolt out right rather than the bolt(s) on the left, which were added later. The right route surmounts a second bulge and is harder than the left variation.
By Ted Kryzer
From: Rochester, MN
Sep 19, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

To sum it up, over hanging 5.10 climbing to make it 5.11. A must do.