Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face)  5.10 X

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Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Larry Dalke, 1960's ? Season:  any Submitted By:  Tony B on Jul 19, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>> The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Flatiron Queen Anne's Head WC Fields Pinnacle The Ghetto East Ironing Board West Ironing Board The Fin Green Thumb Jaws Details www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>>>>> This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

This is an odd route. Although rated "5.9+" in Rossiter's book, me mentions that 'the left side of this roof is quite hard, and the middle is a lot harder than that.' (paraphrased)
Going out left of the roof felt like 5.10 and the middle is at least middle 5.12, or harder... and crumbing. But I've never been able to climb it through the center, nor has anyone I've seen or talked to about it.
Climb up under the roof, and make a gut-buster move to get established on sloping underclings. Climb up and left under the roof on small sloping holds with bad feet (5.10?) or attempt to climb through the center of the roof on a few small crimps and up into the scoop, then to a pinch-undercling. I suspect this is 5.13 in its present state, but I can't string the moves together and never have, so I can't say for sure. Anyone done it direct? How?

Location 

On the East-facing wall of the West Bench inside the amphitheatre, just left of the popular West Bench TR's, there is a rounded roof, 4 meters off of the ground. Below it there are a few sloping underclings, left of it there is a single side-pull and a few slopers, and above it in the center, a shallow, scoop of rock with a crumbing crimp in the bottom. This is the Roof.

Protection 

The protection is poor to naught at the crux, and you'd be semi-horizontal at that point, 4-5 meters off of the ground. I've only attempted it on TR. TR is from the eye bolt at the notch of the West Bench and some 2" gear on long slings.