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Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
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Yellow Matter Custard 

Romper Room 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Damboise, Jerry Handren, Duncan McCallum, Nick Yardley, Greg McCausland, Andy Ross, & Ronald Reagan May 13, 1988.
Page Views: 2,424
Submitted By: matthew ritter on Apr 21, 2009
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Andrew pulls the roof on Romper Room.

Description 

Romper Room is a top notch climb that I feel is on par with the more popular, Eyeless in Gaza. I guess all the first ascentionists reached the anchor at precisely the same moment, back when men were men. Approximately 10-15 feet of awkward, blocky but fun 5.6ish climbing leads to the first bolt and a stance. Clip the next bolt above your head and come back down to view the crux, a bouldery, balancy set of moves up to a small roof. Keep your balance for the third clip, pull over the roof, and enjoy the sustained and blissful face above. I agree with Jay Knower who wrote in his description of Yellow Matter Custard that, "Despite the lycra tights and the high-top boots, those guys knew a good sport route when they saw one."


Location 

Yellow Matter Buttress, just right of Yellow Matter Custard, just left of a wet, dirty crack.


Protection 

6 bolts. Bolted anchor and chains.



Photos of Romper Room Slideshow Add Photo
jeff working to get past the roof...
jeff working to get past the roof...
jeff at the roof...
jeff at the roof...
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By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Jul 31, 2010

Be careful not to smash your shins (or your mouth) on the lip of the roof if you fall off above it. It's nice to have a top-notch belayer that can either pay out some slack, or reel some in, depending where you fall from. Better yet, just don't let go and send!

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 21, 2013

Definitely on par with Eyeless. Great sport route!