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 ADVANCED
Romeo's Ladder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Delivery Room T,TR 
Demon, The T,TR 
Descent T,TR 
Entropy T,TR 
Ergometer T,TR 
Lunging Ledges TR 
Lungng Ledges Direct T,TR 
Original Juliet's Balcony T,TR 
Oyster T,TR 
Romeo's Ladder T,TR 
Romeo's Left T,TR 
Romeo's Nose T,TR 
Romeo's Retreat T,TR 
Romeo's Right T,TR 

Romeo's Ladder 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Don Hubbard
Page Views: 2,155
Submitted By: Peter Jackson on Aug 10, 2010  with updates from Brian Malone and 1 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: Unnamed climbers on Romeo's Ladder. Photo circa 19...

Description 

Center jam cracks up through the upstream-facing face. The hand jams are amazing, though there are a few face holds to help you out.

First Ascent was Don Hubbard as mentioned.
Additional Information: The Year Don Hubbard first climbed Romeo's Ladder was 1940.
Source: A Climber' Guide to Great Falls Park
Nelson, B.A. and Grossman, S.I.
Geneva Spur Limited, Virgina 1975.

Location 

Just shy of 500 Feet downstream of Juliet's Balcony. There's a large, upstream-facing corner with fist-width cracks throughout. The classic Romeo's Ladder route runs directly up the center of the crack system.

Protection 

Toprope is best. Can be led with fist-sized pro, but leading at Great Falls is not recommended. Pro pulls out of the rock.


Photos of Romeo's Ladder Slideshow Add Photo
Romeo's Ladder in February
BETA PHOTO: Romeo's Ladder in February
Opening up on Romeo's ladder
Opening up on Romeo's ladder
Romeo's Ladder & Romeo's Nose climbed with our TR
BETA PHOTO: Romeo's Ladder & Romeo's Nose climbed with our TR
Romeo's
Romeo's

Comments on Romeo's Ladder Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Fraizer
Feb 1, 2014

Romeo's Ladder is 450 feet downstream from Juliet's Balcony.
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Feb 3, 2014

Thanks Michael. I updated the text to reflect the longer walk.
By Brian Malone
From: Olney, Maryland
Jun 1, 2015

This climb is perputually rigged on the weekends. Get there early if you want to climb it..
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 2, 2015

@brian Romeo's Ladder was your first climb in 1978? That's awesome! It must have been much harder (but doable) in the footgear of the time. My first time up this route I was wearing Doc Martin boots.

It's definitely a popular route, and with good reason.
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