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Romeo's Bleeding 

5.11b

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Submitted By: J Farley on Aug 16, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Lewis grabbing the first holds of Romeo's Bleeding...

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a route that stems up the seam to the left of Guillotine and continues right to finish at the top of the Hell Wall


Location 

This route is just left of Guillotine


Protection 

Bolts to chain anchors



Photos of Romeo's Bleeding Slideshow Add Photo
Lewis utilizing a cool hand-jam at the beginning of Romeo's Bleeding.

Lewis utilizing a cool hand-jam at the beginning o...

Lewis a couple moves into Romeo's Bleeding after pre-clipping the first bolt.

Lewis a couple moves into Romeo's Bleeding after p...

Lewis beginning the first of many interesting moves on  Romeo's Bleeding to gain the next couple bolts.

Lewis beginning the first of many interesting move...

Lewis executing a stemming drop-knee move on Romeo's Bleeding to help gain the second bolt. Fun moves!

Lewis executing a stemming drop-knee move on Romeo...

Lewis completely horizontal while executing some moves to get to the 2nd bolt on Romeo's Bleeding! Fun to watch!

Lewis completely horizontal while executing some m...

Lewis clipping the 2nd bolt on Romeo's Bleeding from a unique, fun stance!

Lewis clipping the 2nd bolt on Romeo's Bleeding fr...

Lewis making the clip from an awesome drop-knee stance on Romeo's Bleeding!

Lewis making the clip from an awesome drop-knee st...

Lewis transitioning from one drop-knee to another on Romeo's Bleeding.

Lewis transitioning from one drop-knee to another ...

Lewis employing another creative move to make the next clip on Romeo's Bleeding.

Lewis employing another creative move to make the ...

Anchors on Romeo's Bleeding.

BETA PHOTO: Anchors on Romeo's Bleeding.

Haggle working the stemming moves on Romeo's Bleeding.

Haggle working the stemming moves on Romeo's Bleed...


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By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.11c

Great route! Interesting and creative stemming will help when tackling this climb. Really fun problem solving on this climb with a variety of holds and mandatory good footwork. Almost as fun to watch someone working the contortionist moves as it is to execute them!

The first bolt can be pre-clipped by someone 6'1" or taller, or use a stick clip.

Note: Almost not worth a second top-roping the route due to the angles and forces on the rope while attempting to unclip the draws. Probably easier to lead it than to try and unclip and clean.