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Romano's Route 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Rich Romano late 70s
Page Views: 1,459
Submitted By: Steve Brady on Oct 12, 2010
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Steve Brady nearing the top of the first pitch of ...

Description 

(P1) A full value pitch! A series of burly moves up a steep, stout, finger crack (11c) gains a steep ramp† that leads to a sloping rest ledge (ca. 40’). Continue up the stellar hand crack (10+) to an alcove (ca. 40’). Traverse right across a ledge to the anchor shared by On the Loose/White Knight (60 m single rope rappel). Alternatively, continue up another 40’ of cracks to a bolt anchor. [I have not done this upper pitch/link-up, so any info would be useful.]

†Tip: A directional placed to the right from off the ramp is worthwhile for keeping the rope out of the crack below, which has, on occasion, proven to have an appetite for nylon (ask me how I know!).


Location 

Right end of the cliff, just left of White Knight.


Protection 

Nuts; Double rack of cams to #2 Camalot. More gear if you want to fire the upper pitch as a link-up, which would be sweet. From the common anchor shared by White Knight and On the Loose, you can make a single rope rappel with a 60. The route protects well. The low crux tends to eat up gear to keep you out of ground-fall on tough terrain.



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By afh
From: Keene Valley, NY
Apr 6, 2011

I thought the upper 5.10 crack was similar in style and grade to 'On the Loose'. That is to say: Friggin' sweet.

By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Led this thing today but it really beat me up pretty bad - probably whipped on it a good six or seven times. The lower section is spicy with thin gear that is kind of hard to place and the upper section is a straight up pump-fest. Also I find the upper section to be 11a in its own right as opposed to 5.10 - felt harder than the upper section of "Drop, Fly or Die"...