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5.8 Crag
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Romancing the Stone S 
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Terrace, The S 

Romancing the Stone 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ted Hammond, 1986
Page Views: 6,047
Submitted By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 25, 2006

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Jeff on Romancing just before the traverse right.....

Note: New route moratorium area. MORE INFO >>>


Romancing the Stone is the most distinguishable climbs at 5.8 Crag, as is follows the first line you see as you approach the cliff. The first third of the climb is characterized by technical 5.10 face climbing that is punctuated by an exit move on the "romancing stone," an brick sized tooth that has been wobbly for as long as anyone can remember. In the immortal advice of Tenacious D, use this hold "gently." A rest of sorts can be found before launching into a pumpy traverse and jug haul to the chains.


Romancing the Stone is found at the center of 5.8 crag. If approaching from the road, this will be the first climb you see.


6 bolts, with a two bolt anchor up top.

Photos of Romancing the Stone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Philippe on Romancing The Stone, 5.8 crag
Philippe on Romancing The Stone, 5.8 crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Nicole, quite cold on Romancing...
Nicole, quite cold on Romancing...
Rock Climbing Photo: John K. talking dirty to the stone
John K. talking dirty to the stone
Rock Climbing Photo: Nicole kurth makes a clip from a funky rest... Jef...
Nicole kurth makes a clip from a funky rest... Jef...
Rock Climbing Photo: Isaac contemplating his next move. What a fun clim...
Isaac contemplating his next move. What a fun clim...

Comments on Romancing the Stone Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 13, 2016
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 15, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The stone is gone! Should the route be renamed to, perhaps, Removing the Stone, or Retrieving the Stone?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 16, 2007

it had been there for so long, how did it come out...crazy...
as for the name game i belive in the movie "romancing the stone" they do remove the stone, so the name could still fit the movie its named for...
By Mrs Cracklover
From: Denver, more or less
Nov 5, 2007

Reminiscing the stone? (t. georgewitz's idea)
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 20, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

this route also has a fun direct exit, which goes straight up from the fourth bolt when you then place gear, the is an anchor up there, beware this variation doesn't see much traffic so the variation is kind of dirty
By christopher adams
Jul 6, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

"rest of sorts" is hands free rest 1/3 the way up the route.. move your feet over left, and just lay in the corner.
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Jul 16, 2009

An excellent climb! I'd say the climbing tends to get easier as you go, but you also get more pumped, so it feels like a nice constant difficulty the whole way through if you take your level of exhaustion into account. I'll be back on this again in the near future.
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Aug 7, 2009

....soo pumpy....ouch...
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 26, 2010

today i clipped the first bolt then did the rest on gear... actually protected better than i thought it would... leading them on gear is a cool way to make the old routes feel new again...
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 24, 2010

i hate how greasy the bottom moves have gotten... i would do it more and like it more if it still had friction like in the old days :)
By S. Neoh
Sep 24, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

OK, Lee, about the old days, how long ago? I got on the route just a while back after not climbing it for about 10 years. Half way up, I got quite confused! The route had changed(!) because some bolts were moved around(?). Seems to have more of a traverse now. Not sure if the loss of the 'stone' had anything to do with it, though.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 25, 2010

im just joking about the "old days" but ive been climbing this line often for about 12ish years and over that time it has gotten pretty polished on the first half... i felt like the loss of the stone made that move easier but it was never a hard move to begin with so no biggie there... still a good route but not worth the hype IMO... a good warm up for 5.12ish stuff...
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
Mar 8, 2012

20 feet? I'm guessing that is a typo....
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 9, 2012

i changed it to 60...
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 2, 2012

A good climb for laps.
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
May 20, 2013

I managed to pump off on my flash attempt on this as I was throwing blindly for the first big huge jug near the end and missed. Heartbreaking. On my second attempt I couldn't figure out the beginning technical moves - they felt so easy the first time...

P.S. Where was the stone? Also - does anyone have video of this route going down?
By Eli Buzzell
From: Lives in a 4runner
Oct 18, 2015

This is definitely a test piece for the grade, you can likely climb any 5.10c in Rumney if you've bagged this. Beware the grease factor from the years of wear!
By S. Neoh
Oct 18, 2015
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

+1 on the grease factor! This is unfortunate. Maybe time to power wash the first half of this climb from the ground. And I am only half joking!!
Edit to add: Move for move, IMO there are harder .10c, Millenium Falcon and Cold Turkey for instance. But for pump factor, only Centerpiece back when it was given the .10c grade rivals this climb in pumpiness at the ".10c" rating.
By Ming
May 13, 2016

I think the route is harder for the shorter (5ft 2in wingspan) people because:

1. The start undercling move I had to do a foot match to bump the right foot up and then rebalance...all while crimping on the undercling

2. Oh, and there is no way for me to put up the 1st draw (other than stick clip, of course) until after I did the move from #1...and the stab for the good hold. Talk about committing.

3. If you are 5ft 8 or taller you can skip the side cling crimp in the crack and just stab for the good hold above it at the 2nd bolt. The foot isn't that good for it and I had to readjust after stepping into the crimp to reach the good hold with my right hand.

So I bet if people try with the short person way it will feel harder. Still 10C once the beta is refined, but watching my partner skipping those crux moves (he's like 6ft 2in) and always have decent holds gave me quite a bit of height envy.

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