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This route is a great finish to the Grand Wall. It continues up after climbing to the Bellygood ledge via any number of route combinations that get you to the ledge. All anchors are bolted, as per usual in Squamish.
Pitch 1: Mostly gear, it climbs to a bolt then up to a thin seam that peters out(11a) right as face holds appear and the Boot Flake. Belay on top of the bootflake.
Pitch 2: The Boot Flake(11a), exposed laybacking or squeeze/offwidth technique up the initial 15 feet(the crux) to more laybacking/faceclimbing, though much easier...bring a large cam(I think we used a 4-6" piece) to protect the offwithy bit.
Pitch 3: The business as I called it, follow straight up through the gradually steeper corner to a pin, "chimney" up the 11d overhanging finger crack...locks are totally solid, but the climbing is basically horizontal, wild, fun, hard. Pull the lip of the overhang to a huge ledge and the final pitch. It can be avoid by going left on sketchy gear and pins at 10d, I haven't done it, it didn't look nearly as good as the chimney.
Pitch 4: Standard Squamish crack-in-corner 5.10b, the top out is very sandy.
If going via the Grand Wall, follow the Belly Good ledge left, for about 15 yards till you find the obvious pitch leading up to the Boot Flake.
Single set up cams up 2 inches, double on smalls to .5", one large cam(4.5-6")
|Comments on Roman Chimneys
|By Evan Stevens|
Jun 9, 2008
Oh yeah, the REAL Grand Wall/Uwall finish! You must do it at least once to say you have climbed the Grand Wall, and understand why some chuckleheads wanted to blow up Bellygood Ledge back in the day to keep people from avoiding these pitches!
One new #4 camalot will probably see you through if you don't mind walking it up.
You can avoid the 11d with a 10dR pitch...dirty and scary.
|By David Trippett|
From: Squamish, BC
Aug 9, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
The .11d pitch on the Chimneys stays wet for a LONG time. Plan on finding it dry only after prolonged dry spells of up to two weeks or more.
A great variation of the "Grand Wall" is Apron Strings>Mercy Me>Left Side of the Split Pillar>Roman Chimneys. Double cams from .5 Camalot to #2 and one #3 & 4. RPs or micro nuts are useful for the start of the Left Side. A selection of small cams to blue alien. Some draws for Perry's.
|By Hardhat n Hexes|
From: Flagstaff, AZ.
Feb 26, 2013
I just want to say, the crux pitch of Roman Chimneys is the coolest thing I've done in rockclimbing (and I've done alot of rockclimbing!) But I need to add, before I went and tried it (it took me a few tries to get it clean) I asked Danger Dan what was the dealio with this climb. He described going up the overhanging flare to the flake and then traversing out right on face holds to a finger crack which you head on up. This was the way I first attempted it and it's SO DAMN COOL that I never wanted to try going straight up the groove (which I came to find out is the way everyone else goes) If you do decide to go the extra value, Danger Dan variation, have an orange metolius or red alien with a runner ready when you get out right to that finger crack. On my first attempt I stuck in a yellow metolious. I thought it might of been too small but I knew I wouldn't be able to hang out to get something else so I kept going. I fell, it pulled and I went almost all the way to my belayer. Sports Action!