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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Eddie Whittemore, 1992
Page Views: 935
Submitted By: Allie on Mar 30, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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RoLLO! Climber: Nick Evans


Great route with a couple of intermittent rests that are good enough to recover on, and a tricky sequence after the third bolt. This climb is short but sweet with well spaced bolts. Guaranteed to put a smile on anyone's face.


In between "Junkyard" and "The Big One" on the Sanford Wall. The Sanford wall is marked by a large tree growing right up against the right-most climb called "Grey Matter."


4 bolts to shuts

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By Matthew Bishop
From: Birmingham, Alabama
Jan 21, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c


Intermediate foot-chip (right and down from the third bolt) used in going to the giant undercling broke. It's still more or less there but just worse... Didn't an effect on the grade - I think...

By Chris Hannes
From: Kenosha,WI
Nov 26, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Good looking wall and route, bolting job not the best, second bolt could be lower, don't know if I'd climb this one again.

By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Mar 16, 2010

This route has 3 bolts instead of 4 as the description and the previous 2 guidebooks detail. The bolts are spaced at 15-ft intervals plus the anchors puts this route around 60-ft. This route is very thought provoking, but safe if you were to whip at the cruxes. My biggest complaint with the Watford guidebooks is the lack of route recommendations, but maybe my standards of good routes is much lower ever since I moved from NC to Chossorado! This route and the others should at least get 2 out 3 stars when you consider how popular and chalked up this wall is.

By Bruce Madden
Apr 5, 2010

The 2nd bolt is way too high; I've seen two groundfalls even from attentive belayers, with fortunately not much harm to the startled climber. I believe another bolt to prevent the potential grounding would make it safer.

By Matthew Bishop
From: Birmingham, Alabama
Jan 21, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Great route, but definitely requires a attentive/skilled technical belayer. I have heard/read many stories of people taking ground falls from either clipping 2nd or 3rd bolt, but this seems to be the product of poor belaying/clipping.

2nd bolt falls are probably more to do with the belayer not being up close to the wall / too much slack out in the line.

3rd bolt has this fun thin gaston intermediate to a jug. Every story I have heard of ground falls is from people trying to clip off the gaston.... there is a jug right above it to clip off of. The 3rd bolt has also been extended with a ''perma'' but the gate is quite stiff - just clip a draw into it to save on the pump. I have taken quite a few falls here, and not decked.

Just be smart about your clipping and safe about your belaying and you will really enjoy this super classic route!