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The crux bulge
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An elegant crack system shoot up the middle of the wall, about twenty yards to the right of Fine Whine
. It is probably best to climb a short pitch up the initial chimney in order to have enough rope to reach the next belay. The second pitch follows the thin crack, makes crux moves past a small bulge, and finally passes a larger but easier overhang above. For the third pitch it is again best to halt on the top of a small pillar in the right-facing corner system. The fourth pitch is also a long (60 meter+) to ledges near the dead rappel tree. If in doubt, consider setting up a hanging belay in the corner.
The name came about when the FA party encountered a lot of precarious loose rock immediately above the crux overhang.
Scramble up the approach slabs to the brushy ledge at the base of the western wall. The route starts just to the right of the point where the approach meets the main wall.
Std rack, emphasis on thinnish cams
Climbing the initial chimney
BETA PHOTO: Rolling Thunder
The thin cracks on pitch 2.
The upper corner looks deceptively easy, but it ma...