Rollercoaster 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | (TR) Vaino Kodas & Herb Laeger, 1987, FL: Chris Miller, 5/98 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 1, 2005 |
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Roller Coaster J-Tree
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Description Well-protected and varied throughout it's length, this route requires a variety of techniques to succeed - a balancy lieback down low leads to a steep, thin slab in the middle with a thuggy finish over a roof. Great rock and continuous movement throughout combined with excellent protection make this well-worth doing or even attempting. Three stars out of five.
Location Found just to the left of the classic Rollerball on the northwest corner of the Rollerball Formation.
Protection 9 bolts, anchors (3/8" and 1/2")
| Comments on Rollercoaster |
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By Mark J Gain Oct 29, 2004
| I was out to climb Rollerball several years ago and noticed that the TR to the left had just been bolted, I thought cool, it looks like a fun 5.11, I started to climb and realized that this thing felt a lot harder than 5.11b, maybe I was just way off my game that day, but what do you think? Roof was hard too, lot of variety, but fun even though I was falling. |
By Josh Beck Nov 5, 2004 rating: 5.11b
| I found the slabby liebacking to be quite interesting, I was constantly a twisted mess of arms, legs and rope on this one. The finish is spectacular, this is a very nice route. |
By Randy Mar 8, 2006 rating: 5.11c
| 11b seems a sandbag, particularly for the final moves which seem the crux. Solid 11c. |
By Will S From: Joshua Tree Nov 27, 2006 rating: 5.11
| For such an awkward climb, this is a gem. Three very different cruxes including a showstopper mantle over the lip. Hard to rate a climb like this without climbing it several times 11b? 11c? Who cares, just call it .11 awkward and get on it. The route is very well protected and safe, especially by Jtree standards or can be easily top roped by leading rollerball (chain anchor on top). |
By susan peplow From: Joshua Tree Oct 5, 2008
| Protected well enough to easily lead except for the fact it's not an easy lead. The "show stopper lip" stopped my show. Hard to believe the mantle could be that difficult using all those holds! I may never reach the chains but its a fun ride when visiting the crag just the same. Easily set up TR in full sun makes for a nice destination in the cooler temps. 11 awkward is the perfect rating Will. |
By randy baum From: Minneapolis, MN Oct 23, 2008
| 11 awkward, agreed. top section, once the move is deciphered, goes easy. bottom section (2-4 bolts) is the awkward part, not to mention technical, weird. |
By Ryan Kelly From: work. Jan 5, 2010 rating: 5.11-
| Considering the number of awkward routes at Jtree I'd say this is relatively straightforward. I could see people doing all kinds of strange on the lower crux, but the beta that finally got me up it was fairly smooth. I found the press at the top to be easy compared to down below; YMMV. .11c seems extremely generous for Jtree, but hell, I'll take the tic. I found the moves on Bamboozler to be far harder. I'm giving this 4 stars. For no other reason than it's better than Rollerball. There, I said it. |
By Colonel Mustard From: Reno, NV Jan 27, 2010 rating: 5.11-
| I'd vote 11- as well. I'd advise anybody out rollerball formation way to NOT TR this since you'll seldom find as well-bolted a jtree route. The crux for me is down low on the route in some powerful, yet insecure barndoor type moves. I am no roof master but RC's seems light once you commit. |
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