This is a long, sustained climb on the backside of the Citadel. The rock is pretty decent but needs to clean up a a bit. It seems like it never gets climbed, as there is lichen all over it and no chalk after the start. The steep beginning is the crux - pull through it and you get a no hands ledge to contemplate the rest of the route. After that, it's very consistent and sustained 11+ ish to the top.
It is the rightmost climb on the backside of The Citadel.
12 bolts and solid closed anchors. The first bolt is very high- too high for my stick clip even, but the climbing is easy and you can clip it off a jug.
|By Elijah Flenner|
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
It is too bad that the lower part is so loose, since the upper part is very good. Difficult to rate since the route still seems to be evolving, and the climb may always be loose. Hopefully the holds at the crux stick around, but I doubt it. We broke several at the bottom section, but nothing critical. Difficult to climb it clean when holds keep breaking.