Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
On the piller between the big dihedral second pitch of Rover and the OW second pitch of Ruper, locate 3 bolts on the left side of the face right of the arete. This route was originally rated 12a/b, the newest guide book notes 11d, but for some reason its not that hard. Good position and fun moves, but poorly placed bolts is how I would describe this rig. I thought the crux was clipping the last bolt (if you are well under 6' then even more so). Regaurdless, a great link-up into the Rover crux pitch above.
A good pitch. Of the three bolts, the only easily clippable one is the first. The second bolt is about four feet away from a perfect stance, but once clipped you'll have overhead pro for most of what I thought was the crux. The third bolt is clipped mid-move making the last hard section a little harder than necessary. It would be nice to have the bolts placed more logically (and to have modern bolts). Also, a med/lg stopper will safely get you to the first bolt. It was definitely way overrated at .12a and .11d. It seems like .11b/c even with the bolts being hard to clip.
By Joe Collins Jul 15, 2004 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
11b/c climbing, but making the 3rd clip feels like 11+.
I really enjoyed this route, it was nice to find a fun, well-protected, hard route in a cool position. As for the bolt positioning, clipping the second and third was difficult, but both had good stances right below them and I found it easy to downclimb back to the stances after clipping for quick rests. Overall, I didn't think the bolt positions made the route any harder.
The second and third bolt looked like they've been recently replaced (thanks!), and the first, although old, still looks a lot better than some of the museum pieces in Eldo.