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Winter Wall
Routes Sorted
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Basalt Therapy T 
Blind Faith S 
Gopher Broke S 
Grape Ape S 
Hellboy S 
Highly Caffenated T 
Highway to Hell T 
Naked Lunch S 
Old Sling T 
Old Sling Straightened T 
Original Face Route T 
Pale Face S 
Post Moderate S 
Protein Supplement S 
Roid Boys S 
SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 
Sunbaked S 
Trough, The T 
Vitaman T 
Xibalba S 

Roid Boys 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 104'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Thomas
Page Views: 862
Submitted By: George Perkins on Oct 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Description 

Roid Boys has really easy climbing interrupted by 3 short steep sections moving through blocky overhangs. Finding the good exit holds and having enough core and upper body strength to pull through these cruxes is key. The 2nd roof is probably the crux, you move from left to right.

This climb has an unusual character for an easier Diablo sport climb, with short powerful cruxes and almost none of the endurance factor that characterizes other Diablo moderates.

I think the FA deserves good credit for intelligent bolt placements on this route. With these short boulder problem cruxes, falls onto ledges or slabs would've been possible, but the bolts are in perfect locations, so this is not an issue.

Rap the route with one 60m rope (and PAY ATTENTION TO THE END OF IT- it may just barely reach or might come up just a couple meters short of the ground, depending on rope stretch; DON'T GET DROPPED!)

Location 

Right side of Winter Wall, the 3rd sport climb from the right.
Route 10 in beta photo.
Bradshaw's online guide photo may help.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


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By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Apr 29, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CONDITION REPORT 
Wildlife alert: There is a nest with three owlets only about 12 feet left of the second roof. They were not happy to be discovered, nor was their parent. They look about 1/2 way to fledging, so maybe give them another two-three weeks from this post to clear out before climbing Roids. Thx.
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Dec 4, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

In D. Jackson's book, Rock Climbing New Mexico, topo shows route #3 and calls it Roid Boys; this is not correct, #3 is Vitaman; Roid Boys is not shown on the topo map.
By Rick Bradshaw
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 8, 2008

This route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler, all of whom worked together on several routes at Diablo and in particular on the Winter Wall.
By Karl Kiser
Apr 1, 2008

Tom Wezwick and I climbed the crack to the right and put the anchor in (previously climbed because old sling found in crack). Mark Thomas then put up Roid Boys and placed the upper bolts so they could be used by both routes (rock at the top of the crack less than good).
By Heidi Riley
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jan 3, 2015

1) a 60 meter rope is fine for rapping this route - it wasn't short for us.
2) feet don't have to come off the wall.
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