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Roid Boys 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 104'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Thomas
Page Views: 672
Submitted By: George Perkins on Oct 23, 2007
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Description 

Roid Boys is characterized by really easy climbing interrupted by 3 short steep sections moving through blocky overhangs. Finding the good exit holds and keeping your feet on, in these sections, is the key. The 2nd roof is probably the crux, which requires that you cut your feet loose as you move from left to right. 'Roids would probably help.

The unusual flavor for an easier Diablo sport climb makes this one worth checking out, and the punctuated cruxes with good rests and easy ground in between make it seem easier than most at the grade here.

I think the FA deserves good credit for intelligent bolt placements on this route. With these short boulder problem cruxes, falls onto ledges or slabs would've been possible, but the bolts are in perfect locations, so this is not an issue.

Rap the route with one 60m rope (and PAY ATTENTION TO THE END OF IT- it will come up just a couple meters short of the ground, depending on rope stretch; DON'T GET DROPPED!)


Location 

Route 10 in beta photo. Toward the right side of Winter Wall- it's the 3rd sport climb from the right.
Bradshaw's online guide photo may help.


Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Dec 4, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

In D. Jackson's book, Rock Climbing New Mexico, topo shows route #3 and calls it Roid Boys; this is not correct, #3 is Vitaman; Roid Boys is not shown on the topo map.

By Rick Bradshaw
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 8, 2008

This route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler, all of whom worked together on several routes at Diablo and in particular on the Winter Wall.

By Karl Kiser
Apr 1, 2008

Tom Wezwick and I climbed the crack to the right and put the anchor in (previously climbed because old sling found in crack). Mark Thomas then put up Roid Boys and placed the upper bolts so they could be used by both routes (rock at the top of the crack less than good).