Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Industrial Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Auctioneer, The S 
Driver Eight S 
Judon't Wanna Go There S 
Jumping Someone Else's Train S 
Mudblood T,S 
Railing S 
Railslide S 
Rogue S 
Soul Train S 
Spike S 
T.G.V. S 
Terminal S 
Terminal Velocity S 
Tunnel Vision S 
Vogue S 
Unsorted Routes:

Rogue 

YDS: 5.14- French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Chris Weidner
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,613
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on Jan 14, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO

Private Property issues MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Rogue is a variation finish to the existing testpiece Vogue 14b. It climbs through the first desperate crux of Vogue, which involves slapping up both sides of an overhanging refrigerator on excellent rock. A strenuous rest can be found after clipping the ninth bolt. Instead of tackling Vogue's second crux just above, Rogue traverses left for 10 feet on sharp crimps, then fires through a roof using flared hand jams and small edges. There are 2 widely-spaced bolts after traversing left from Vogue.

Both routes were bolted and attempted by George Squibb in the early nineties, but Vogue wasn't redpointed until 1999 by Tommy Caldwell. Rogue remained incomplete, primarily because it is an easier variation to the original line, and would be a 'why bother' for the three men who have sent Vogue. It is published as "Alternate Finish" on p. 92 of Rossiter's guidebook to Eldorado Canyon. Both George Squibb (redpoints 14b) and Justen Sjong (Vogue - 2nd ascent) confirm the grade of Rogue to be 14a.

The climbing on this route is superb, and although it is not an independent line, Rogue remains a worthwhile and challenging addition to the sport climbing at the Industrial Wall.

Protection 

11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Comments on Rogue Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 30, 2005

So Chris, as I understand it you are claiming the FFA? Or no?
By Chris Weidner
Apr 7, 2005

Yes, I am claiming the FFA (First Free Ascent).
By Anonymous Coward
May 3, 2005

Nice work Chris!