A powerful start from underclings yields a steep unrelenting face. After the third bolt, pull a small roof, probably the red point crux. After this the difficulties end, and unfortunately so does the good rock. Head up on increasing chossy rock, mantle onto a wet moldy ledge and traverse left to anchors shared with Moat Jump.
Might be best to use the anchors for Couch Warrior and skip the final two bolts of climbing.
On the far right side of the Wall. Starts between Moat Pump and Couch Warrior.
8 Bolts to shared Anchors with Moat Jump.
Sep 2, 2010
Fun route that required minimal cleaning, compared to the the bangfests, that we hammered on for hours... Also one of the few that Jean and I bolted and rp'd in a day.
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 7, 2013
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b
I had to start a bit to the left, using the "Moat Pump" underclings; this makes the first "Rogue Warrior" bolt out of reach. (Of course you could stick clip it, or maybe the one above.) I'm not really worried about if this is legit or not, but if there's a way to go direct to the big hole and holds by the 2nd bolt independent of "Moat Pump", I wasn't finding it, at least not at what seems mid-5.12. I haven't seen anyone else climb it straight up either, since I began climbing at the Dungeon regularly a few years ago. Don't know if this is the way it's always been done, or if something broke, or if I'm just not finding the right holds.