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Clay at the top; Liam following
Rogue Planet is a visually striking, direct shot up the NW buttress of Aegir. Plenty of high quality, in-your-face climbing up great features.
The start is fairly obvious: just left of Direct Madness, a large flake forms a fat crack with a dihedral above. EFR checked out this system years ago, and eventually came down, as he wasn’t looking to aid through anything. Geir and I launched up the first pitch in early September, and placed 3 aid bolts on lead (later freed) through the 1st pitch crux.
P1: Easy face climbing past one bolt brings you to the jumbo flake. Some liebacking and chimneying spits you out at the base of the dihedral/arête. The pitch’s crux looms above and involves difficult edging up the arête past 3 bolts. This section has been done a couple of ways and both are similar in difficulty. Beyond the third bolt, a mini toilet-bowl flake leads to some lie back moves and a moderate run to the anchors. The hard climbing isn’t sustained, but it is really good and this pitch is pretty varied. 5.12b, 100 ft. 2 bolt anchor with biners.
P2: A relentless, beautiful pitch stretching to the top of Aegir. Past the 2nd bolt, make sure your shoulders and washboard abs are warmed up for a powerful low crux. A couple of small pieces and a marginal rest lead to more stiff climbing: edging and side-pulling up an island of climbable features, with blank real estate on either side. The huge horizontal weakness that slices the NW face offers not only a good rest, but also ample time to think about lobbing off in the last 80 feet of terrain. Some small but bombproof gear permits safe passage through a semi-insecure section, and then 4 bolts guide you up to and over the final battle: an outrageous, intimidating roof guarding the anchor. This last section could prove to be a heartbreaker. A finger or medium-sized cam can be placed before the anchor if desired. 5.12c, 130 ft. 2 bolt anchor.
Route can be descended to the ground by rapping the route with a 70 m rope. The first rap down to the 1st pitch anchors is close, so pay attention.
NW face of Aegir left of Direct Madness
Small to medium stoppers with brass being helpful, single set of cams from micro to #4 BD, probably 16-18 draws/runners to be safe. The only cam you may need doubles in is purple Metolius.
Clay Mansfield getting it done on the first pitch.
1st pitch. Photo: Alex McIntyre
Geir working the second pitch crux.
The long shot with Clay and Geir working it.
Clay in battle with pitch 2
Clay high up on the second pitch dialing in the mo...
By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 17, 2013
Nice work you guys, you put a lot into it and now you have a cool climb. I look forward to next season at the Reef.
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 19, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rogue Planet was a real battle to establish but it was definitely worth it. We started on this route hoping it would get us up to Tideways. It didn't wind up taking us that way, but Clay saw the second pitch while we were climbing Tideways and became convinced it would go. He put in a tremendous effort in figuring it out, cleaning it, and redpointing it. We just managed to finish the route as the season closed.
The first pitch has a lot of good climbing on it, but the real gem is the second pitch. Even at the Reef I think that this is a legitimate four star pitch. It has unrelenting, strenuous, mind-boggling climbing to a heartbreaking final roof. Two of the three cruxes are protected on small but bomber gear. There is plenty of protection but it is still intimidating.
By Clay Mansfield
May 23, 2014
Just a heads up for anyone looking to check this line out this summer: a couple of bolts need to be moved, and I'm not sure when Geir or I will be able to do so.
On the first pitch, I believe one or two of the bolts on the crux arete should be moved around the corner onto the main face.
On the 2nd pitch, I think we realized a bolt under the final roof would be nice. As it is now, it is relatively safe, but you're looking at a long one.
These bolt movements will make this climb more user friendly, but it is totally safe in it's current state, especially given the area. We wanted to fix this up last fall, but the clock was ticking on the season for us, and we never made it back up there after we redpointed it.