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This is a fun route and a nice way to approach Breakfast of Champions
. An initial wide layback crack leads to some broken block climbing. There are chains about 60 feet up that I just clipped and continued on up all in one pitch. The upper corner involves really fun stemming and great exposure. The pitch ends at the obvious tree with lots of slings.
I approached this by walking towards Princely Ambitions
(which is found by heading right on the approach trail when it forks). Right before the Lower Wall is reached you can scramble up a well-traveled path (class 3) to a large, dirty ledge. Roger's Corner is directly above and can be identified by the wide layback corner.
Double TCUs-#3 Camalot and nuts. Long slings helpful if you do it all in one pitch.
Roger's corner minus the opening wide crack.
Jun 9, 2014
Fun climb, but the moves above the intermediary anchor and right below the top anchor felt awkward. Stemming at the top helps tremendously if you can find the good footholds. The entire route protects very well.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Aug 5, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
FA: Greg Donaldson, Roger Johnson, Richard Mathies, April 1967.
FFA : Bob Crawford, Don Harder, Sept. 1974.
Aug 24, 2015
Easy to do in one pitch - I used a double runner to clip a bolt on the intermediate belay station and then back-cleaned the last piece I put in before the intermediate bealy and finished without noticeable rope drag.