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Old Baldy
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Rogaine with Minoxidil 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike McNeil
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 1,303
Submitted By: Mike McNeil on Jun 30, 2009

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Wide view of Old Baldy

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Description 

Far to the left of the "newly bolted" routes past a large chimney system you will see a couple of beefy bolts going up some schist. This is the route. I believe there were about 6 bolts plus gear placements to a two bolt anchor on the face. I think there are then 5 bolts on the second pitch with some gear placements as well. Belay counter-weighted in a hole and walk off the back. The crux is clipping the 3rd bolt on the second pitch.

Location 

West face of old Baldy

Protection 

Bolts + gear to 3 inches. One rack is plenty. It is also nice to bring some long slings


Photos of Rogaine with Minoxidil Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay coming up to belay station after first pitch. ...
Jay coming up to belay station after first pitch. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mikey on Rogaine, shot from Grecian Formula
Mikey on Rogaine, shot from Grecian Formula

Comments on Rogaine with Minoxidil Add Comment
Show which comments
By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Nov 21, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

no need for gear. maybe 1 piece on the 2nd pitch #1 or 2# with a long runner. route is pg13 with bolts right where you need them, not where you want them though. run outs are easy terrain, 5.4ish.
By Mike McNeil
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Jun 30, 2015

Taking A rack to a three definitely makes this route not a PG-13. It was intended to be a mixed route and therefore have very adequate protection.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 1, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

"Taking a wreck 23 makes us route deafly not a PG-13 route. It was intended to be a mixture route and therefore have very adequate protection."

Mr. McNeil your amusing post seems to be riddled with typos and I'm certainly no spelling nazi. Are you saying that bringing a small rack is recommended? I think I placed a nut on the first pitch to alleviate a runout and also sling a nice horn in one place. Good route, thanks for putting it up.
By Mike McNeil
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Jul 6, 2015

Chris, I should read what I write on my phone before submitting. Haha. I fixed the comment above, but I was a little surprised when it showed up in the Rushmore book as a sport route. There are quite a few good placements to be had, but not everyone will feel the need to use them. I would want them to know it can be a very safe route if they so choose.
By Kathryn H
Nov 23, 2015

Super fun and leads to a breathtaking summit view!! Rated PG-13 in the Rushmore Guidebook, but don't let this scare you away. The runout sections in the first pitch can easily be protected with gear, and even if you don't have gear, the climbing is 5.5 or 5.4. In the second pitch, the runout sections are not as easily protected, but are very easy climbing. Could not locate the anchors to the route (still not sure why, maybe the leader for the second pitch was just blind?), and had to use the anchors for a route about 20 feet to climber's left. Traversing was easy, though.
By Mike McNeil
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Nov 23, 2015

No anchor just sit in one of the tubs and walk off. Hip belay if you would like.
By J.Kruse
Apr 8, 2016

After the obvious first four bolts after the anchor on the second pitch, had a hard time locating any others on the way up. Nice options for gear and chicken heads to sling though. I will echo the comment above that approaching this as a sport climb might not be wise.

Also, careful if you try to rap the route from the anchors near the top. A 70m rope did not quite reach the anchors on the first pitch and required a little problem solving to sort out. I think the guide instructs to hike off, but just a heads up incase you try to rap.

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