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Old Baldy
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Rogaine with Minoxidil 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike McNeil
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 1,073
Submitted By: Mike McNeil on Jun 30, 2009

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Jay coming up to belay station after first pitch. ...

Check NPS for Closures


Far to the left of the "newly bolted" routes past a large chimney system you will see a couple of beefy bolts going up some schist. This is the route. I believe there were about 6 bolts plus gear placements to a two bolt anchor on the face. I think there are then 5 bolts on the second pitch with some gear placements as well. Belay counter-weighted in a hole and walk off the back. The crux is clipping the 3rd bolt on the second pitch.


West face of old Baldy


Bolts + gear to 3 inches. One rack is plenty. It is also nice to bring some long slings

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By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Nov 21, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

no need for gear. maybe 1 piece on the 2nd pitch #1 or 2# with a long runner. route is pg13 with bolts right where you need them, not where you want them though. run outs are easy terrain, 5.4ish.
By Mike McNeil
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Jun 30, 2015

Taking A rack to a three definitely makes this route not a PG-13. It was intended to be a mixed route and therefore have very adequate protection.
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Jul 1, 2015

"Taking a wreck 23 makes us route deafly not a PG-13 route. It was intended to be a mixture route and therefore have very adequate protection."

Mr. McNeil your amusing post seems to be riddled with typos and I'm certainly no spelling nazi. Are you saying that bringing a small rack is recommended? I think I placed a nut on the first pitch to alleviate a runout and also sling a nice horn in one place. Good route, thanks for putting it up.
By Mike McNeil
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Jul 6, 2015

Chris, I should read what I write on my phone before submitting. Haha. I fixed the comment above, but I was a little surprised when it showed up in the Rushmore book as a sport route. There are quite a few good placements to be had, but not everyone will feel the need to use them. I would want them to know it can be a very same route if they so choose.
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