Relatively tall, compact limestone walls with approximately 40 routes ranging between UIAA 3 and 8- (5.3 to 5.11a/b). The view from here is amazing, but the crag can get a little crowded due to the large amount of 5s and 6s (5.6 through 5.10a). However, if moderate climbing is your thing, then this is a pretty good place to come to.
One of the easiest crags to get to from Nuernberg/Erlangen. Head up the A73 (Autobahn) towards Forchheim. Take the Forchheim exit but head toward Gosberg and Schlaifhausen. Drive through Gosberg and take a left toward Wiesenthau. Continue through to Schlaifhausen, continue straight in Schlaifhausen (don't turn right towards Dietzhof) and take the left where the sign to Walberla points. Continue past the cherry trees up the hill for about 1km. There will be a big, impossible to miss dirt parking lot on the left (you can actually see it in the satellite overview). Park there and hike up the hill. The road turns to gravel when you need to take a right. Continue up the hill for about 400m until a small path goes through thick forest to the cliffs.
Browse More Classics in Rodenstein
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rodenstein:
Schlaifhausener Kante 5.4 Sport, 90 feet
Edelweisskante (kante = arete) 5.9- Sport, 80 feet
Pfeilerkante 5.10- Sport, 80 feet
Spanische Zeiten 5.10a/b Sport, 50 feet
Sekundant 5.10c/d Sport, 45 feet
Featured Route For Rodenstein
Sekundant 5.10c/d International : Europe : ... : Rodenstein
The start is a bit tough, so there's no shame in pre-clipping the high first bolt. As you can see by the spacing between bolts, the business is all concentrated between the first and the third bolt. Getting to the fourth bolt is also not very easy, but the difficulty really eases up after that. The climbs in this section are on very compact rock, which means that the pockets which abound at most of the other crags in the Frankenjura aren't quite as prevalent here. However, this climb has some co...[more] Browse More Classics in International